Charcuterie

In Italy, it’s salumi; in France, charcuterie. Any way you slice it, it’s better than “luncheon meat.”

Angelique Cafe

Chef Bruno Herve Commereuc has been making charcuterie since he was a teenager in France. At the Fashion District charmer he runs with his wife, Florence, you can get a sampling of some of his delicacies that includes a rustic country pate, persille (a ham terrine), rillette (a creamy pork pate) and garlic sausage. Because there are two pieces of everything, it makes a great starter to share.

* Charcuterie plate, $10.95; 840 S. Spring St., L.A. (213) 623-8698.

A.O.C.

The menu at this bustling wine bar is so appealing, it can be a challenge deciding what to order. The good news about the plate of house-made charcuterie is that it’s really three items. Right now there’s a chicken liver mousse, a bold Greek-style lamb terrine with olives and a rabbit terrine with pistachios, accompanied by a little frisee, radish and apple salad as well as mostarda, a hot-sweet Italian condiment.

* Charcuterie plate, $13; 8022 W. 3rd St., L.A. (323) 653-6359.

Mix

Chef John Jackson may be an Ohio boy, but he has a knack for French charcuterie. In one of his first attempts in culinary school, he won a competition for his. Now he turns out several varieties at his West Hollywood eatery, including a chicken galantine (a work-intensive recipe using several parts of the chicken) served with Madeira jelly and a baby green salad tricked out with sliced dates.

* Chicken galantine, $11; 1114 N. Crescent Heights Blvd., West Hollywood. (323) 650-4649.

Pescadou Bistro

Solid French fare, moderate prices and an unpretentious vibe have made this family-run bistro a Newport Beach favorite. Jacques de Quillien makes his own pate forestier with pork, chicken, mushrooms and sometimes duck. You can also get a combination plate with duck rillette and rosette de Lyon, a mild pork sausage.

* Pate forestier, $7; combination plate, $12; 3325 Newport Blvd., Newport Beach. (949) 675-6990.

Mimosa

At this almost perfect bistro, chef Jean Pierre-Bosc serves up a terrific and varied assortment of charcuterie. Like everything here, it comes with a big jar of tart, crunchy cornichon and another of house-marinated olives.

* Charcuterie plate, $13; 8009 Beverly Blvd., L.A. (323) 655-8895.