Itinerary: Venice

The Venice that so adamantly refused to give up burning incense, batik bedspreads and loud throbbing drum circles at sunset is finally giving in to the pressures of progress. Famous Ocean Front Walk is undergoing tedious renovations and historic bungalows are here today, gone today, so spend some time this weekend exploring some off-beach locations where movie stars have always mingled with other species quite well.

Cigarette magnate Abbot Kinney turned sleepy Venice into an extravagant playground in 1895, complete with canals, piers and faux Venetian architecture. The Red Car brought thousands of sweltering visitors to the cool air and the amusement park at the end of Windward Avenue. But Venice was pretty seedy by the ‘60s. Marijuana seedy. Hippies, surfers, leftists, beat poets lived a high life in the low place. Rent was cheap. Jim Morrison slept here.

Venice is now in the throes of redevelopment. Dennis Hopper, Eric Clapton, Anjelica Huston, Tony Bill and “The Simpsons’ � Matt Groening own homes here. Restaurant prices are up. Better get here quick.

Friday

The happy hour at Chaya Venice (110 Navy St., [310] 396-1179) is a good place to begin. From 5 to 7 p.m., the chic restaurant serves $3 sushi and appetizers and bargain sake in a wood box. Get there early or you won’t get in the popular bar. Cross Main Street and visit Obsolete (222 Main St., [310] 399-0024). This funky antiques shop actually sells toys, furniture and oddities from the last mid-century.

Saturday

Venice’s last head shop, Psychic Eye Bookstore (218 Main St., [310] 396-0110) is moving to Hermosa Beach soon. Stock up on Tarot cards, Japanese incense and fertility charms. Then walk down Rose Avenue, turn left on Speedway and stop at Henry’s Market (9 Dudley Ave., [310] 392-4365). Order some vegetable samosas or huge deli sandwiches from the lovely Shyla and sit on the sidewalk tables watching the ocean. Enjoy the fact that you’re paying less to get the same view served up at current-rage fooderie neighbor, 5 Dudley.

After lunch, continue north on Speedway and turn left at Paloma Avenue. The Ellison at 15 Paloma was built in 1914 as a resort hotel. At one time owned by Stan Laurel, the building was used as a location in 1958’s “Touch of Evil,� when Venice doubled as a Mexican border town. Back on Main, head north. On your left is Roger Corman’s studio. Corman gave such notables as Ron Howard and Jack Nicholson early work in his B movies.

Turn left on Abbot Kinney Boulevard, where a multitude of design studios and antique stores abound. Finish the day at Consortium Gallery (1100 Abbot Kinney Blvd., [310] 396-9598). Owner-production designer Anton Goss is hosting an “outsider art� reception from 7 p.m. until 2 a.m.

Sunday

The Venice canals are a hidden respite from the wild ocean life. Inflatable rafts and boats are permitted, so bring your own, pack a lunch, and float the day away amid mansions and teeny tiny huts. Launch on to the Grand Canal from the parking lot at the corner of Venice Boulevard and Pacific Avenue. At the north end of the Grand Canal sits a huge gray former beach hideaway where Flo Ziegfeld used to keep his beach girlfriends. Remember a simpler time in historic Venice when a producer could do something like that and get away with it.