Ham It Up

All the world loves a ham, which is even further proof that life is nothing without romance. Because what we’re really talking about is nothing more than the preserved hind leg of a pig.

What magic is behind its transformation? Hams are preserved by salt. Though we usually think of it as a seasoning, salt also has distinctive physical properties. One of the most useful is its drying characteristic (why else would bartenders serve salty foods?).

Salt’s secret is nature’s love for balance. When something extremely salty is placed next to something that isn’t very salty, liquid from the less salty substance is drawn into the saltier to try to dilute it.

In practice, this not only dries the flesh of meat being salted, it also kills any microorganisms that might be lurking: It draws out the liquid within the “bug.” Of this, we shall say no more.

Traditionally, hams have been salted in either of two ways. The ham can be packed in dry salt and aged, as is done with the great hams of Italy, Spain, China and some parts of the southern United States. This gives a ham a very close, silky flesh.

Or the ham can be soaked in a salty liquid or brine. Brined hams have a coarser flesh, more akin to that of raw pork. They are milder and more moist as well.

More recently, there are shortcut hams that are injected with brine. They are called “city hams” by country ham lovers.

Though all hams are salted, there are other flavorings added as well. In the United States, it is common to add sugar. This is most commonly done in the brine but is rubbed on the surface of some dry hams. Sugar not only adds flavor but also is a drying ingredient.

Hams are frequently smoked too. In addition to imparting a distinctively “country” taste, smoking has an anti-bacterial effect, not only because the ham is slightly cooked but also because of certain naturally occurring chemicals in the smoke.

Aged hams don’t need to be cooked. They are delicious simply sliced thin (very thin, in some especially salty cases). If you choose to cook them, they must be soaked in several changes of cold water for at least a day before being boiled and then, perhaps, baked.

For other hams, look at the label. “Fully cooked” or “ready to eat” hams need only to be heated through. “Partially cooked” hams need to be cooked to about 150 degrees internal temperature before eating.