1996 Mazzei “Poggio alla Badiola,� Tuscany About $14

Tuscany is above all Sangiovese country, the one place on the planet where the grape, when it’s grown and vinified with care, achieves its fullest expression. The 1996 Poggio alla Badiola from Mazzei, the family that has owned the Castello di Fonterutola estate since the mid-15th century, is a fine example. Made entirely from Sangiovese and aged in barriques, it has a warm, burnished quality. With its ripe fruit, firm tannins and taste of earth and cherries, this medium-bodied red is perfect for summer barbecues. The Tuscans, after all, are big on grilling everything from dainty lamb chops and fat-rimmed pork chops with sage to hefty slabs of bistecca Fiorentina. The 1997 is also available.

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Available at Hi-Time Wine Cellars, Costa Mesa (949) 650-8463 and Wine House in West Los Angeles (310) 479-3731. If you can’t find this wine, ask your local wine store to order it from the distributor, Wine Warehouse (323) 724-1700.