Salade Lyonnaise

Salade lyonnaise is usually frisee (curly endive) and lardons (cubes of bacon) dressed with a good vinaigrette and topped with a poached egg for richness. Like any great salad, it inspires variations.

* Vermont: In this elegant cafe, salade lyonnaise surfaces as “Michael’s favorite salad.” It’s frisee, Canadian bacon, soft poached eggs and a warm raspberry vinaigrette. (Michael’s favorite salad, $7.95.) Vermont, 1714 Vermont Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 661-6206.

* Bistro K: Salade lyonnaise runs as a special at this pretty spot. Made with baby frisee, apple-smoked bacon lardons and tiny poached quail eggs, it’s dressed with a red wine vinaigrette. (Salade lyonnaise appetizer, $7.95; entree, $12.95.) Bistro K, 267 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, (310) 276-1558.

* Michael’s: A variation of salade lyonnaise is made with Guss’ bacon and Watsonville curly endive, a sturdy green that really stands up to the Dijon mustard and chive vinaigrette. All that’s missing is the egg. (Endive and bacon salad, $9.50.) Michael’s, 1147 3rd St., Santa Monica, (310) 451-0843.

* Mimosa: Here is the classic, with chewy lardons, frisee and a poached egg that spills its yolk over the greens to mingle with the vinaigrette. (Frisee lyonnaise, lunch entree, $9.95; dinner appetizer, $8.75). Mimosa, 8009 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 655-8895.

* Mistral: In the San Fernando Valley, frisee, lardons and a poached egg, all dressed with the house bacon-fat vinaigrette, is offered at lunch and dinner. (Salade lyonnaise, $6.50.) Mistral, 13422 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, (818) 981-6650.

* Pastis: Here we have salade paysanne (country salad), a somewhat delicate lyonnaise made with baby frisee liberally sprinkled with cubed bacon, topped with a poached egg, lightly dressed in a lemony vinaigrette and served in a deep green bowl. (Salade paysanne, $8.) Pastis, 8114 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 655-8822.

* Troquet: At lunch, try the frisee lardon salad with a poached egg set on a warm potato tart with confit of duck gizzards and a Bordeaux wine vinaigrette. (Frisee lardon salad, $8.) Troquet, South Coast Plaza, 3333 Bristol Ave., Costa Mesa, (714) 708-6865.

* Cafe Pierre and Zazou: At these South Bay cafes, chef-owner Guy Gabriele makes a very authentic salade lyonnaise on request and for all holidays and French-theme dinners. He tosses frisee, lardons and tiny garlic croutons in a warm vinaigrette, then tops it all with the poached egg. (Salade lyonnaise, $6.95.) Cafe Pierre, 317 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, (310) 545-5252; Zazou, 1810 S. Catalina Ave., Redondo Beach, (310) 540-4884.