1997 Lenswood Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc, South Australia (About $19)

This pale gold wine, from the cool climate of South Australia, has an elegance that’s rare in a Sauvignon Blanc anywhere outside Sancerre or Graves. You taste crisp acidity, seductive scents of flint and pears and a finish that goes on for minutes.

It would be a beautiful match with cold oysters on the half shell or fresh Dungeness crab.