Italian Garden Inspires Brunch

With their light and lively flavors, many Italian recipes are ideal for brunch. In this menu, the granita is prepared ahead, with the other two recipes made in the morning to serve together as one course. Just add some good bread and you’re ready to sit down at the table.

The Italian frittata is often translated as “omelet,� but it is actually rather different. Both are cooked on the stove, but an omelet is fried fast so that it has a brown outside and soft center, whereas a frittata is cooked as slowly as possible. The eggs gently puff and set into a golden cake that is cut into wedges and served hot or cold. A frittata can be flavored with an assortment of vegetables and cheeses, even with meat or fish.

The frittata could have been designed for life in Burgundy, where my husband and I live. The gardener’s wife, Madame Milbert, keeps hens and a few ducks, so fresh eggs are guaranteed. In summer, each month brings its harvest from the garden, starting with green peas and beans, then expanding to artichokes, spinach, zucchini and broccoli. At last the tomatoes come in, the filling for the very best frittata of all--flavored with our own oregano and garlic. Stupendo! No accompaniment beyond a loaf of Italian-style country bread is needed.

For frittata, the filling is cooked first, then the pan is wiped before adding the eggs and filling. The correct frying pan size is important, because the frittata will dry out if it is too large; if it is too small, the egg tends to scorch on the bottom before the top is cooked. Everyone has a favorite pan for cooking omelets or frittata; I prefer the classic sloping-sided French steel pan. A heavy base is important to spread the heat evenly, and a nonstick surface can be helpful.

PLUM TOMATO AND OREGANO FRITTATA

1 onion

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 cloves garlic

1 pound plum tomatoes

Salt, pepper

1 large bunch fresh oregano

7 eggs

1/2 cup shredded Gruyere cheese

2 tablespoons butter

Frittata is equally good at room temperature, when it shrinks and becomes more intense in flavor.

Peel onion, leaving bit of root, and cut it in half through root and stem. Set halves, cut-side down, on board and slice. Heat olive oil in 10- to 12-inch skillet over steady low heat (cooking time will vary with size of burner). Add onion to oil and saute over medium heat.

With flat of knife, lightly crush garlic cloves to loosen skin. Discard skin. Smash cloves with flat of knife, then chop them. Stir garlic into onion and cook lightly, but do not brown.

With knife tip, scoop out cores of plum tomatoes. Halve them crosswise and squeeze out seeds. Slice with large knife, then cut slices crosswise into quite small dice. Stir tomatoes into onion mixture. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste and cook 1 to 2 minutes, just to soften them slightly, without releasing too much juice.

Meanwhile, strip oregano leaves from stems, running fingers along stem from tip to root end. Reserve few sprigs for decoration.

Break eggs into bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and whisk just until smooth and slightly frothy. With spoon, stir in tomato mixture from pan together with cheese and oregano.

Wipe out skillet and return to heat. Add butter. Heat butter until foaming, then pour in frittata mixture. Cover pan and cook over low heat 25 to 35 minutes. Frittata will puff and rise almost to top of pan. It is done when set on top and well-browned underneath.

Run knife around edge of frittata to loosen and turn out, browned side up, onto large warmed plate. Decorate top with oregano sprigs.

Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

335 calories; 300 mg sodium; 403 mg cholesterol; 26 grams fat; 9 grams carbohydrates; 17 grams protein; 0.82 gram fiber.

QUICK RATATOUILLE

1 onion

1/4 cup olive oil

1 eggplant (about 3/4 pound)

Salt, pepper

2 cloves garlic

1 tablespoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon dried Provencal herbs or dried thyme

1 red bell pepper

1 green bell pepper

1 pound plum tomatoes

2 small zucchini (about 3/4 pound)

Small bunch fresh basil

Peel and thinly slice onion. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in wok. Add onion and saute over medium heat.

Trim eggplant without peeling and cut in half lengthwise. Cut each half into 3 or 4 strips, then across into 3/4-inch slices. Stir into onion with remaining 2 tablespoons oil and plenty of salt and pepper; cook over medium-low heat.

Peel and chop garlic. Stir into eggplant mixture along with coriander and Provencal herbs or thyme.

Halve, core and seed red and green peppers. Cut crosswise into thick slices. Stir into vegetables. Halve tomatoes. Squeeze out seeds, then chop each half into 4 chunks. Stir into vegetables. Trim zucchini. Halve lengthwise, then slice crosswise. Stir into other vegetables and adjust seasonings. Cover wok and cook until all vegetables are tender but still hold shape, 8 to 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, pull basil leaves from stems and coarsely shred. When ratatouille is cooked, stir in basil. Serve hot or leave at least 30 minutes to cool to room temperature. Adjust seasonings just before serving.

Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

205 calories; 93 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 14 grams fat; 20 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 2.44 grams fiber.

WHITE WINE GRANITA WITH BLACKBERRIES

1 1/2 cups sweet white wine

1/4 cup sugar

1/2 cup water

2 tablespoons juniper berries

2 cinnamon sticks

1 pint blackberries

Bring wine, sugar and water to boil over high heat, stirring once or twice.

Meanwhile, wrap juniper berries loosely in plastic wrap and crush with rolling pin. Add to wine syrup with cinnamon sticks and simmer 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let infuse 2 minutes, longer if there is time.

Pick over blackberries and chill, uncovered. Rinse only if necessary just before serving.

Strain infused syrup into shallow glass dish. Cover with plastic wrap and chill in freezer until firm and slightly crystallized, about 3 hours. (You can leave it up to 2 to 3 hours longer in freezer.) Chill 4 large coupe or stemmed glasses.

Just before serving, pile berries in chilled glasses. With fork, scrape granita into soft chunks and pile onto fruit. Serve at once, with cookies on the side.

Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

147 calories; 7 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 23 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 3 grams fiber.