CLUB REVIEW : Something Hip Is Brewing at the Red Lion

There is a breed of club-goer who yearns for familiarity and predictability, who holds dear a casual environment where the music’s not too loud or challenging, who values a venue that could never be mistaken for hip.

Well, let’s issue an apology to the regulars at the Red Lion Tavern, because the 3-decade-old Silver Lake pub is all of the above. But alas, it’s become fabulously hip.

A longtime watering hole for local beer lovers, the German-themed club has become such a popular nightspot that the owners have reopened an upstairs dining area for the first time in four years and are building an outdoor beer garden.

Aside from a generous selection of German beer, part of the Red Lion’s appeal is undoubtedly its roaring kitsch factor. Not only is it designed with a Munich-of-yore panache (yes, waitresses wear Bavarian-issue dirndl dresses), but the music is an oddball combo of authentic German beer-drinking songs and amusing live performances. On the jukebox is a rousing lineup of Hofbrau hits and old-country artists such as Heino and Marlene Dietrich. Live performances occur every night except Monday and include Matthew the Keyboard Player and Doug the Accordion Player--last names aren’t used at the Red Lion, says Sophia the Manager. Among Matthew’s MIDI-inspired highlights are “Beat It” and any Frank Sinatra song you can request. Doug specializes in the blues.

With Oktoberfest season imminent, specials abound at the Red Lion, and now would be a fitting time to make your first visit. And to the beleaguered regulars, just remember: This too shall pass.

* Red Lion Tavern, 2366 Glendale Blvd., Silver Lake. All ages, no cover. (213) 662-5337.