IN THE KITCHEN : Salmon--Call of the Wild

In 19th-Century England, salmon was so plentiful and so cheap that it became a mainstay of workhouse menus. It got to the point that employers were forbidden to feed apprentices salmon more than three times a week.

Sometimes I wish there was a similar law in California.

Indeed, if there was ever a designated state meal, it would probably be over-cooked salmon and over-oaked Chardonnay (actually, in my opinion, a pretty horrid combination in the best of situations--the oil in the salmon makes the wine taste fishy).

But just because something has been overdone doesn’t mean it still can’t be done well. Remember, there were similar laws in New England against feeding people too much lobster. Right now, with the California commercial salmon season well under way (it began May 1), is the best time to explore the ways of the wild salmon.

Start with shopping. Just because the wild season is going doesn’t mean the farmed fish isn’t available. Far from it. The vast majority of all the salmon you’ll find in the market is farmed. But, while farmed salmon has its admirable qualities--it is steady, reliable, affordable--when the wild stuff is available, you owe it to yourself to try it.

Look for line-caught California salmon. While salmon caught in nets can be very good, it can also get pretty banged up before it reaches the boat. You’ll probably have to ask some questions, and you’ll probably have to go to a specialty fish store to find it. I get mine from Pete Siracusa, who--with his dad, John--run J&P; Seafoods, selling quality fish at farmers markets around the city.

The difference between this and the run-of-the-mill fish is striking, right from the moment you pull it out of the bag. Salmon is a fatty fish, but this stuff is amazing, the flesh side covered with a thick layer of what can only be described as “salmon grease.� That may not sound so appealing, but all that fat translates into flavor.

It also means a piece of fish that is incredibly forgiving. I’m a bit of a nut about cooking most fish--I stay right on top of it, poking and prodding every 30 seconds or so to make sure it doesn’t overcook. When I’m cooking this stuff, I relax. With all that fat, there’s no way it’s going to turn out dry.

I put the fish in to poach when appetizers are served and don’t come back out to check it for about seven or eight minutes. If it needs a bit longer, I sip wine and chat, then go in to finish the dish.

The first time you try one of these salmon, you ought to cook it as simply as possible, either grilled or broiled. I like grilled fish, but I find broiling gives a little bit of the crust that I prefer.

So here’s my recipe for the perfect way to cook California salmon the first time:

Salt fish well on flesh side. Place in preheated broiler. Cook until surface begins to crust and meat barely flakes (about seven minutes for the average fillet, I’ve found). Serve with quartered lemons on the side.

Pretty complicated, huh? But try doing this with farm-raised and wild side-by-side, you’ll see what all the fuss is about.

Once you’ve tasted the pure flavor of the fish you can start playing around. For me, the determining factor in how I fix salmon is the fat content. For leaner, everyday salmon, you can play with other rich ingredients; for fatty fish, I try to use a restrained hand.

In this recipe, the one-fourth cup of good vinegar lends a nice bite that lightens the richness of the flesh. I used the best Champagne vinegar I could find (the label reads “La Marne� and it’s from Reims, the center of the Champagne district). If you’re not as confident of your vinegar’s quality (or if you’re making this with farm-raised fish), you’ll probably want to use a tablespoon or two less. When we tested this recipe in The Times Test Kitchen, neither the vinegar nor the salmon were what I had used at home, and the vinegar was a little too strong.

Salmon comes in either steaks (cross-sections of the fish) or fillets (side sections). I prefer fillets for this dish, but for a really nice dinner, you’ll want to be sure all of the pin bones have been removed. These are the little bones that run down the center of the fillet. They’re probably not big enough to do any damage, but it’ll save your guests from having to spit things out.

Eliminating them is simple: Run your finger the length of the center line of the fillet, when you feel a bone, pull it gently but firmly with tweezers or needle-nose pliers.

The only question remaining is what wine to serve with it? Champagne, of course, would be nice, preferably one of the fruitier ones made with a higher percentage of the “black� grapes (Pinot Noir). I went with a very steely Sauvignon Blanc and, combined with the vinegar, it was just a little too restrained. Next time, I think maybe a Reisling would be perfect.

Anything but Chardonnay. There oughta be a law.

SALMON BRAISED WITH LEEKS, PROSCIUTTO AND MUSHROOMS

3 small leeks, whites and 1 inch of green only

2 slices prosciutto

1/4 pound small button mushrooms

2 shallots, minced

1/4 cup butter

1/4 cup Champagne vinegar

2 cups white wine

Salt

3 pounds skinless salmon fillets, cut into 6 serving pieces

1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves

Leaving root end whole, cut leeks in lengthwise quarters and rinse well. Slice thin crosswise. Slice prosciutto thin. Leave small mushrooms whole, cut larger mushrooms in quarters.

Combine leeks, prosciutto, mushrooms, shallots and 2 tablespoons butter in large, straight-sided saute pan. Cook, covered, over medium-low heat until leeks are tender, about 5 minutes. Add vinegar and white wine. Cook until reduced by about half, about 15 to 20 minutes. Season to taste with salt. Adjust other seasonings to taste. Dish can be prepared several hours ahead up to this point.

Return pan to medium heat. Mixture should be just barely bubbling, never boiling. Place salmon fillets over bed of leeks, sprinkle with thyme, cover and cook gently until fish turns opaque on top, about 5 minutes. Test with point of sharp knife, fish should just flake. Do not overcook.

Remove salmon to platter, scraping away any leek mixture on top of fillet. Raise heat to high and reduce remaining liquid to several tablespoons. Add remaining 2 tablespoons butter and cook, stirring, until butter melts into sauce. Place salmon fillets on serving plates and nap with sauce.

Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about:

435 calories; 287 mg sodium; 122 mg cholesterol; 20 grams fat; 13 grams carbohydrates; 39 grams protein; 1.15 grams fiber.