A Walk on Yosemite’s Wet Side

The rocks were slick from the thunderous spray and the climb was the steepest we’d ever attempted. Matt and I looked at each other apprehensively. Should we continue to the top or head back down? “Come on!,� Reggie urged impatiently. “When else can you climb to the top of a waterfall?� she demanded, leading the way up Yosemite’s famous Mist Trail hiking path to the top of Vernal Fall. We had no choice but to follow.

It was a spectacular, though admittedly scary experience to climb alongside rushing water from the Merced River plunging down the mountain about 317 feet.

“Look, a rainbow!� Reggie said excitedly. And there it was, as unmistakable as those she likes to draw with her markers.

We visited in the spring when the falls are at their strongest from melting mountain snow. We gawked at Yosemite Falls, at 2,425 feet one of the highest in the world. We got soaked at Bridalveil Fall. Legend has it, we were told, that spirits who live at Bridalveil get their kicks from drenching everyone who comes close.

But nowhere did we appreciate the power and the beauty of Yosemite more than climbing alongside Vernal Fall.

The first part of the hike is easy. Even a preschooler could manage the portion to Vernal Fall bridge that provides a good vantage point to view the fall. No wonder the 7/10ths of a mile hike to the bridge is among the most popular in the park. Don’t be fooled, though. It’s only another half mile to the top but we wondered if we’d ever get there. “Not too much farther,� hikers coming down kept reassuring us.

Later, we toasted our accomplishment over a sumptuous dinner at the historic Ahwahnee Hotel in its 130-foot-long dining room. (Dinner reservations are a must. Call 209-372-1489. Men are now welcome in sweaters or collared shirts.) Matt grudgingly admitted dinner was worth getting dressed up for--especially after the waiters made a fuss over his hiking feat.

Relaxing in that Gargantuan room with my well-scrubbed and, for once, well-behaved children beside me--all of us glowing from the afternoon’s exercise--I felt totally at peace. If only motherhood could always be this rewarding, I thought. No wonder naturalist John Muir dedicated much of his life to Yosemite Valley.

The thing about Yosemite, we discovered over a weekend visit, is that there’s plenty to satisfy everyone in the family, no matter what the age, stamina or interest. There are 250 miles of roads and 800 miles of hiking trails offering a variety of experiences.

Lots of families opt to bike, and bikes and helmets may be rented. Many families camp and backpack. (Call 800-365-2267 for MISTIX reservations.)

Drive to Glacier Point for what many say is one of the best views of the entire valley. Stay to see the moon rise. Take a stroll out to Mirror Lake for a good look at the famed Half Dome. Look for wildlife--bighorn sheep and red-tailed hawks in the mountains: mule deer (thus named because of their big ears) chipmunks, coyotes, all kinds of birds.

Spend a morning hiking through the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias. Check out the California Tunnel Tree with a huge tunnel carved through it and the 209-foot high Grizzly Giant.

A good resource for the hiking family is “Easy Day Hikes in Yosemite� by Deborah Durkee ($4.50, The Yosemite Assn.; 209-379-2648).

There are plenty of ranger programs to choose from that are designed with children’s interests in mind. In the summer, stop at Happy Isles Nature Center, near where the trail leading to Vernal Fall begins, and sign up to become a junior ranger. Check out the special kids’ activities and environmental programs at LeConte Memorial, a short drive away from Happy Isles. Spend time exploring the Pioneer Yosemite History Center at the south end of the park near the Wawona Hotel. In summer months, volunteers dress in period costume and portray early Yosemite residents. Stop at the Yosemite Valley Visitor Center in Yosemite Village to find out which children’s programs are being offered. (Call 209-372-0200 for general park information.)

Be forewarned that Yosemite gets very crowded in the summer--to the tune of more than 600,000 people in July alone. Since reservations can be hard to come by, here are a couple of tips from Yosemite officials for getting them:

* If you want to stay over a weekend, plan to arrive during the week.

* Call for reservations on Saturdays and Sundays. (For Yosemite reservations, call 209-252-4848.)

* Call 30, 15 or 7 days in advance of arrival. These are common dates when rooms held by previous reservations are canceled.

Yosemite is one of the few places in my book that’s worth extraordinary effort. Reggie thinks so too. Before we left, she bought a stuffed raccoon. She named him Vernal--after the waterfall. He’s got the place of honor on her bed.