Summer Wines: Think Pink

Rose has always been thought of as an inexpensive wine. But these days the few good, dry rose wines that remain on the market--even those pushing $10 a bottle--may be considered bargains.

To make a good dry rose, winemakers must use very good red grapes, since these wines don’t rely on sugar to cover up flaws, such as bitterness.

But red wine grapes are more expensive now than they’ve been in a long time. In the last two years, news reports that moderate consumption of red wine may reduce the risk of heart disease have increased demand for red wine. This has driven up prices for red grapes, creating a shortage in California that has made it hard on those committed to rose.

It’s true that not much great rose is made, but the few good ones offer consumers a wonderful wine with great flexibility.

When I suggest to people that they try a rose, most wince and think I’m crazy. To avoid being called names, I have recently taken to adding, “But it’s really nice at picnics and on patios, with barbecued burgers and salads and grilled sausages and . . . “

The most versatile rose is dry, or off-dry. Sweeter versions don’t work well with food. They are closer to soda than to wine.

Those who make sweet rose suggest you serve it very cold (which masks the awful smell and taste); the sugar covers up what little flavor there is.

With the red grape shortage, it’s hard to find a good dry rose for less than about $7, which is more than most people feel rose ought to be.

Still, if you’re not upset paying $12 for a bottle of Chardonnay, the $8 to $10 you’d pay for a bottle of good rose seems like a bargain, especially in view of the refreshment and taste you get and how it matches certain foods and certain moments better than any Chardonnay could.

Finding the best rose wines for a Fourth of July party may not be easy. Many grocery store wine buyers think all rose is sweet, so they feel any old rose is OK. Fine wine shops offer a better chance.

Among the best every year is the Grenache Rose designated Vin de Mistral from Joseph Phelps Vineyards ($10).

The wine has loads of spicy, cranberry-like fruit and is full-bodied, so it doesn’t seem totally dry. This is serious rose that gains weight with time in the bottle, but is best drunk young. The 1993 version has just been released; the ’92 is still marvelous.

Two weeks ago I found a bottle of 1989 Phelps Grenache Rose in my cellar and opened it for some knowledgeable wine folks. Some remarked that it had lost a bit of fruit, but the wine was still eminently drinkable. And the 1991, tasted three weeks ago, was still excellent.

One of the best new rose wines I have tried in the last few years is a 1993 Cinsault ($6) from Mel Master’s Les Jamelles brand.

This must-taste wine is made from grapes grown in France’s Corbieres region, best known for its rich red wines. It is a gem, with a carload of raspberry and strawberry aromas, a soft entry and crisp, dry finish. The color is an almost iridescent pink and the balance is perfect for either cooling off or pairing with food.

Another wine superb with appetizers like cheeses and dips is 1992 Heitz Wine Cellars Grignolino Rose ($6). There is a delightful orange peel and strawberry aroma, and the wine is lighter in weight than some. It’s a bargain at the price. There will be no 1993 version--the fruit never ripened properly.

I also like McDowell Valley Grenache Rose ($7.50), which tends to be a tad soft, but appealingly fruity.

A number of wineries make near-rose from Pinot Noir grapes. These are slightly pink (or salmon-colored) wines that are made essentially dry; a few are aged in oak.

The best of these is the exceptional new 1993 Etude Rose of Pinot Noir ($10.50), which is an incredible experience. The wine has the purest form of Pinot Noir fruit without oak or sugar. Made by Tony Soter, one of the Napa Valley’s top winemakers, it reminds me of a sparkling blanc de noirs without bubbles. Not to be missed.

Others made this way are Bonny Doon Winery “Vin Gris de Cigare�; “Vincent Vin Gris� of Saintsbury; Au Bon Climat Vin Gris ($9), and Sanford Winery Vin Gris ($8).