THE WINE LIST

If you know a lot about wine, it might be a good idea to arrive 15 minutes early to read through the list at Bernard’s. If you know nothing about wine but would like to learn, make it half an hour.

Robert Cross, director of wine at the Biltmore, has assembled a wine list that is priced slightly on the high side but which has so many other attributes that it’s worth perusing. There are some older vintages of fine red wines and well-selected younger vintages. For the novice, many hard-to-pronounce wine terms are spelled out phonetically.

The list, always one of the most complete in the city, is for wine lovers whose wine vocabulary doesn’t necessarily begin with Chardonnay and end with Cabernet Sauvignon. Indeed, for appetizers, you’ll find splendid Rieslings (such as 1990 Trefethen, $19), Sauvignon Blancs (1990 Dry Creek David Stare Reserve, $21) and even a few Italian and French specialties.

Among the better Chardonnay values are 1990 Simi, $23, and 1989 Zaca Mesa Reserve, $26. Among the red wines, savvy buyers will find such excellent selections as 1987 Firestone Merlot, $28; 1980 Conn Creek Zinfandel, $28, and 1989 Saintsbury Pinot Noir, $32. The red wine I had, 1985 Henschke Shiraz, $28, represents excellent value, rich and mature with earthy notes.

The most creative thing about the list is the by-the-glass selection, which changes frequently, recently including Mondavi Fume Blanc Reserve, $7.50; Clos du Bois Merlot, $7.50; 1988 Beringer Cabernet, $5, and even a 1983 Nuits-St.-George, $7.50.