The Awesome Bean

Don’t underestimate dried beans. Among the oldest foods known to humanity, they date back at least 4,000 years. Their current prominence on the culinary scene is due to today’s preference for home-style comfort foods as well as healthy foods. Dried beans have become chic.

Dried beans are rich in protein, calcium, phosphorus, iron and soluble fiber. Low in fat, dried beans, which come in many colors, shapes and sizes, are solid good food that is versatile and reasonably priced.

It usually takes some advance preparation to work with dried beans, but the procedure is simple. Rinse the beans in a strainer held under cold running water. Sort through the beans to remove any pebbles or foreign matter. Depending on the type of bean or recipe, the beans may need to be soaked for several hours or overnight. When ready to cook, drain the beans and proceed according to the recipe.

Many beans are available canned or as “quick-cooking,� which means they have been pre-soaked and dried again before being packaged. Although less time is involved in these options, they are not as fresh-tasting or as firm to the bite as the dried beans. Remember that pre-soaking takes no attention, just some forethought.

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Flageolets are tender, young, delicately flavored dried beans--the seeds from a green bean. They are a perfect foil for garlic, onion, tomato and basil. Adapted from the classic bean dish, flageolets a la Bretonne, this recipe is intended to counter the effects of the winter chill. It’s a great accompaniment to roast lamb, chicken and pork; it can also be made ahead and reheated. Many recipes call for the flageolets to be soaked in water from two to 24 hours. This recipe uses a quicker method: The beans are put in a pot of cold water, brought to a boil, drained, then simmered.

SAUTEED FLAGEOLETS WITH TOMATOES AND BASIL

14 ounces dried flageolets

1 small onion, cut in half

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 large cloves garlic, minced

1 large red onion, finely diced

2 medium tomatoes, shell cut into 1/3-inch dice

1 sweet red pepper, cut into 1/3-inch dice

3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

3/4 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper

3 tablespoons julienned fresh basil leaves

Place flageolets in cold water in 3-quart pot. Bring to boil, then drain and rinse. Cover beans with 2 1/2 inches hot water. Add onion halves. Bring to boil. Simmer, covered, until beans are tender, about 40 to 60 minutes. Do not overcook but let beans become tender enough to absorb flavors in sauce. Drain and discard onion halves.

Heat oil in 12-inch non-stick deep skillet over medium-high heat. Add oil. When hot, add garlic and red onion. Cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add tomatoes, red pepper, vinegar, salt and pepper to taste. Cook until heated through. Add beans. Cook until very hot.

Adjust seasonings to taste. (Can be made 1 day ahead and refrigerated. Gently reheat. Adjust seasonings and vinegar.)

Add basil. Serve hot or warm. (Can also be served at room temperature as salad.) Makes about 2 quarts, or 6 servings.

Note: Flageolets are available in gourmet markets.

Each serving contains about:

307 calories; 316 mg sodium; 0 mg cholesterol; 8 grams fat; 46 grams carbohydrates; 17 grams protein; 4.65 grams fiber.

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This is a versatile preparation, great as a dip (served hot or cold) with crudites or tortilla chips. Or layer the beans on tortillas, garnish with shredded cheese and bake in the oven. The beans also make a tasty substitution for mashed potatoes.

MASHED PINTO BEANS WITH CILANTRO

8 ounces dried pinto beans

3 bay leaves

1 large clove garlic, peeled

1/2 medium red onion, quartered

1/2 cup cilantro leaves

2 teaspoons red wine vinegar

2 teaspoons lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper

Rinse and sort beans. Place in large pot and cover with 2 1/2 inches cold water. Let stand overnight or at least 8 hours. Drain. Cover beans with 2 1/2 inches hot water. Add bay leaves. Simmer, covered, until tender, about 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Drain beans, discard bay leaves and reserve 3/4 to 1 cup cooking liquid.

Place beans, garlic, onion, cilantro leaves, 3/4 cup reserved liquid, vinegar, lemon juice, cumin, salt and pepper to taste into bowl of processor. Puree until smooth, adding remaining cooking liquid as desired. Adjust seasonings to taste. (Can be made ahead and gently reheated on stovetop or in microwave oven. Adjust seasonings and lemon juice.) Makes 3 1/2 cups, or 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

205 calories; 597 mg sodium; 0 mg cholesterol; 1 grams fat; 39 grams carbohydrates; 12 grams protein; 3.58 grams fiber.

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Here, small red lentils add a delicious crunch to chili. Cook the lentils until they are as firm or as soft as you like. The food processor shortcuts the preparation; it minces the garlic and onion, then roughly chops the stewed tomatoes, all in rapid succession without the need to wash the bowl in between.

RED LENTIL CHILI

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 large cloves garlic, minced

2 large onions, minced

1 (28-ounce) can stewed tomatoes, including juice, tomatoes roughly chopped

1/4 cup tomato paste

7 cups water

2 teaspoons ground cumin

2 teaspoons brown sugar

1 teaspoon dried oregano

3 tablespoons chili powder

1 3/4 cups red lentils, rinsed

1 teaspoon salt

Cayenne pepper

Sour cream or yogurt, optional

Diced avocado tossed in lime juice, optional

Minced cilantro leaves, optional

Heat oil in 4-quart pot over medium-high heat. Add garlic and onions and cook until tender, about 5 minutes, stirring often. Add tomatoes, tomato paste, 4 cups water, cumin, brown sugar, oregano and chili powder. Simmer, covered, 15 minutes. Add lentils, remaining 3 cups water and salt.

Simmer, covered, until lentils are cooked as desired, at least 40 minutes, stirring often to avoid any sticking. Season to taste with cayenne. Adjust seasonings to taste. (Can be made 2 days ahead and refrigerated or frozen as long as 3 months in airtight container. Reheat gently. Add water as necessary for desired consistency. Adjust seasonings to taste.)

Serve with sour cream, diced avocado and minced cilantro, passed separately. Makes 10 cups, or 8 servings.

Each serving contains about:

214 calories; 646 mg sodium; 0 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 37 grams carbohydrates; 14 grams protein; 3.55 grams fiber.