Manto Recalls Heart and Sole of Christmas Past

OK, so you’re not in the mood to talk turkey right now. We understand. So let’s take Carmelo Manto’s advice and talk fish.

Manto, who becomes an institution wherever he owns a restaurant (Carmelo’s Ristorante in Corona del Mar for the past nine years, La Strada in Los Angeles for 21 years before that) still maintains the holiday tradition of his youth in southern Italy.

“On Christmas Eve, the whole family got together and feasted on fish, any kind of fish, every kind of fish, cooked any and every way--fried, baked, sauteed--and served with vegetables,” he says. “The vegetables were also every kind you can think of and cooked in different ways; cauliflower and artichoke hearts, for example, dredged in flour and fried.

“Then, at about midnight, came the pasta with various kinds of sauces and hot peppers and shrimp and other seafood.”

Then, everyone presumably slept soundly, not dreaming about sugarplums.

Manto got into the restaurant business almost accidentally, taking what was supposed to be a temporary job as a cafe host. Within a few years he had opened Via Veneto, which he says was the first restaurant in Los Angeles to offer alfresco dining.

But it was at La Strada that a quirk of fate brought him his first real prominence. Knowing Manto’s love of music, a customer gave him a piano for the Los Feliz Boulevard bistro. Within a short time, jam sessions became the late-night rule, and Tuesday was reserved for Manto’s real passion--opera.

Amateurs and professionals alike--including a young tenor named Placido Domingo--came to La Strada to sing on Tuesdays, and the restaurant became known as “the opera place.”

Of course, the food didn’t hurt La Strada’s popularity either. The following dish--a marinated sole perfect for Christmas Eve--is a good example.

SOGIOLE IN SAOR

(Venetian-Style

Marinated Sole)

2 pounds small sole or flounder fillets

4 extra-large eggs

1/4 cup cold milk

1 quart vegetable oil

1 cup unseasoned bread crumbs

4 tablespoons sweet butter

Sauce

1 large onion, sliced thin

1/2 cup olive oil

4 tablespoons sweet butter

10 whole black peppercorns

2 bay leaves

1/2 cup white wine vinegar

1 cup cold water

10 sprigs parsley, leaves only

2 medium garlic cloves

1/4 cup raisins

2 tablespoons pine nuts

Cut fish into 2-by-4-inch chunks. In large bowl, beat eggs and milk with a pinch of salt. Add fish, mix and let marinate for 1 hour, stirring occasionally. While the fish is marinating, prepare the sauce. After slicing onion, soak for 5 minutes in bowl of cold water. Heat oil and butter in sauce pan. Drain onions and saute in oil-butter mixture until onions are translucent. Add peppercorns, bay leaves and wine vinegar and simmer for 2 minutes. Add the cup of water and continue simmering about 20 minutes. Finely chop parsley and garlic and mix together. Soak raisins in bowl of lukewarm water for 15 minutes.

After fish has marinated, heat vegetable oil and butter in deep-fryer or deep heavy skillet. While that is heating (to 375 degrees), place sheet of aluminum foil on cutting board and spread bread crumbs on it. Remove fish pieces one at a time from marinade and cover with bread crumbs, pressing with palm of hand. Fry for 1 minute on each side and transfer to large serving dish. When all the fish is cooked, sprinkle the garlic and parsley over it. Drain raisins and pat dry with paper towels, then spread over the fish. Pour the reduced sauce over fish, cover the platter with aluminum foil and let stand for 1 hour before serving. (Serves six.)