CORNROWING AND FRENCH BRAIDING YOUR OWN HAIR

The world can perhaps be divided between two types of people: those who know how to elaborately braid hair and perform the tasks on anyone who will sit still long enough, and those who admire the high-style look but consider their fumbling fingers incapable of mastering the technique. To those who know how to plait hair, watch out. With this guide, the rest of us will soon be competing with you for stationary heads.

Cornrowing and French braiding hair is simple, once you’ve mastered the basics, says Hue Nadeau of Lake Forest Beauty College. But learning does require patience and perseverance, so put on your favorite CD, let the answering machine monitor your calls and take it step by step.

First, some tips to make it easier:

* Hair should be washed, conditioned and thoroughly dried. Wet hair tangles too easily.

* Braiding hair too tightly may cause breakage, so work neatly but gently.

* Beginners should practice by making larger braids before attempting the tiny, delicate ones. Simple styles can be accomplished on your own, but more elaborate styles may require a helping hand. Salons charge $100 to $150 for this time-consuming process.

CORNROWS:

This ancient African hairstyle complements the striking face (Bo Derek and Stevie Wonder can pull it off; best supporting actress nominee Juliette Lewis could not at this year’s Academy Awards). It’s a convenient way to keep hair under control while traveling and provides a break from daily hairstyling routine (cornrows can be kept in place for six months).

Step 1: Part off a section of hair to form the first braid. Neat, well-defined parts are essential.

Step 2: Separate the section formed by the first part into three individual strands.

Step 3: Cross section No. 3 under section No. 2, picking up loose hairs along the way.

Step 4: Cross section No. 1 under section No. 3.

Step 5: Cross section No. 2 under section No. 1.

Step 6: Repeat steps 3 through 5, forming a flat braid along the scalp until the strand begins to hang away from the head. Continue braiding till you reach the hairs’ end.

Repeat steps 1 through 6 until braids form a pattern across the scalp.

FRENCH BRAIDING:

A completely different look can be achieved through French braiding, which is done in an overhand motion. Here is a simple style that forms one large braid:

Step 1: At the crown of the head, part hair into three sections.

Step 2: Cross section No. 3 over section No. 2 in an overhand motion, picking up loose hair as you go.

Step 3: Cross section No. 1 over section No. 3.

Step 4: Cross section No. 2 over section No. 1.

Step 5: Repeat steps No. 2 through No. 5 down the back of the scalp, forming hair into a small pigtail where it extends past the nape of the neck.

Caring for Braided Hair:

Braided hair should be shampooed at least once a week. Rinse well and work shampoo into braids with gentle pats and squeezes. Add more water if necessary.

Massage scalp to loosen any dandruff. Rinse thoroughly and repeat. Apply conditioner.

Dry hair and scalp may be lightly oiled with olive, coconut or baby oil. Wearing a scarf to bed will help keep braids tightly woven.

How to Unbraid Hair:

Starting at the ends, unravel each braid with your fingers, pausing to comb out small sections at time. Daily hair loss is normal, and styles kept in braids for weeks or months will shed considerably. Shampoo thoroughly and condition.

Source: The Braider’s Bible, by Cassandra M. Rachal.