The Shucking Truth

Thanks to hybrids that retain their sweetness for several days, it’s no longer critical that fresh corn on the cob be cooked the day of harvest. Even so, as corn ages, nature turns the sugar in the kernels to starch, so for the best flavor and most tenderness, it’s still best to cook the ears as soon as possible after purchase.

Many varieties of corn are grown around the country. Kernels may be yellow, white or variegated yellow-and-white, a variety known as “butter and sugar corn.� White corn typically has smaller, sweeter kernels than yellow.

Regardless of type, choose ears with fresh-looking green husks. Pull them down far enough to check for well-filled-out rows of kernels that spurt milky juice when pierced with a thumbnail. Corn silk should be free of decay and worm damage.

Purchase at least one large or two small ears of corn per person. At home, wrap the unhusked ears in damp paper towels and store them in the refrigerator until just before cooking.

Since shucking corn tends to be rather messy, you may want to lay newspapers out on the counter before you start the job--or, if you’re barbecuing, prepare the corn outdoors.

To Cook Corn in the Husks:

Pull off any dry outside leaves. Before discarding, tear a 1/4-inch wide strip from one of these husks to use as a tie.

Gently peel back the remaining husks on the ear (Step 1), one at a time, leaving them attached at the stem end.

Pull away as much of the silk as possible with your hand (Step 2), then rub the kernels with a damp paper towel (Step 3) to remove the remainder. If desired, the corn may be buttered and seasoned to taste at this point.

After carefully pulling the husks back over the corn, tie at the top with the reserved strip (Step 4). Immerse the prepared ears in cold water for 30 minutes. Drain corn, then:

* Grill over hot coals 20 minutes to 25 minutes, turning often;

* Roast in oven at 475 degrees 20 minutes to 25 minutes; or

* Steam on rack over boiling water 15 minutes to 18 minutes.

To Cook Husked Corn:

Strip husks away, then break or cut off the tip and stem ends. Remove the silk as previously directed. Cook by one of the following methods:

* Bring two to three quarts of water to boil in a large sauce pot. Add up to six ears of corn, one at a time, keeping the water boiling. Cook three to five minutes. (A tablespoon or two of sugar added to the water will freshen more mature corn. Salt should not be added to the water.)

* Wrap in heavy-duty foil and roast in oven at 375 degrees 25 to 30 minutes.

* Steam on rack over boiling water 8 to 10 minutes.

Serve the corn piping hot, slathered with butter and seasoned to taste with salt and pepper. If desired, flavor the butter with chili powder or finely minced fresh herbs.

Kernels may be cut from leftover ears and used in recipes calling for cooked corn. We experimented with a variety of tools on the market for removing the kernels but found a standard chef’s knife worked best.

With the ear standing on the end, cut straight down, removing three or four rows at a time (Step 5). Do not cut too deeply--the kernel bases should be left attached to the cob.

For cream-style corn, scrape the cob with the dull side of the knife to remove the remaining pulp and juice.