HOLIDAY DINING : Doing Things the Heart Way

Hearts, flowers--and food. That’ll be the essence of Valentine’s Day in Orange County restaurants, some of which will extend the celebration beyond Friday dinners.

A few of the ways to make dining out something special for that someone special this year:

Even the beer will be in the pink at the Fullerton Hofbrau, where bartenders will pour blushing raspberry beer. Along with the restaurant’s usual home-style, casual food, there’ll be a four-course feast offering cream of fresh watercress soup, Caesar salad, choice of three entrees (grilled sea bass topped with brie and mustard sauce, stuffed breast of veal, or steak Diane), and a strawberry tart. It’ll be $19.95 and served from 4 to 10 p.m. Reservations: (714) 870-7400. The address is 323 N. State College Blvd., Fullerton.

Il Fornaio will say, “Felici auguri di San Valentino� (Happy Valentine’s Day) with a heart-shaped “biscotti festivi�-- a holiday cookie for each diner Feb. 14. The red-sugar-crystal-topped biscotti are available in the restaurant bakery at $9.50 per pound or $1.75 each. They’re on sale now at Il Fornaio Gastronomia Italiana, 18501 Von Karman Ave. in Irvine; (714) 261-2202. For dinner reservations, call (714) 261-1444.

The Village Farmer will gets to the heart of recession worries with a “Lovers’ Delight Menu� for two that will include a flower and a glass of champagne or wine for each of you for $25. Dinner will begin with either nachos or fresh sauteed mushrooms in wine sauce, then move to a Caesar salad and one of four entrees, then finish with dessert. The dinner will be served on Valentine’s Day and on Feb. 15 from 5 to 10 p.m. at the restaurant, in South Coast Plaza Village, Sunflower Avenue and Plaza Drive, Santa Ana; (714) 557-8433.

For a Victorian Valentine, McCharles House will present champagne and roses, classical music, and Valentine’s Day dinner seatings at 5:30 and 8:30 p.m. The menu will offer harvest pork chop with mushroom sauce or Cornish game hen with a raspberry glaze and stuffed with wild rice. The price will be $35 per person, excluding beverages. The entrees will be available, as will the regular menu, on the evenings of Feb. 13 and 15 evening as well. The restaurant will present a Victorian Valentine Tea from 11:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Feb. 11 through 15, priced at $12.50. McCharles House is at 335 S. C St., Tustin; (714) 731-4063.

A black-tie optional dinner at the Robert Mondavi Wine and Food Center will pair Robert Mondavi Reserve wines with oysters, duck, and a heart-shaped chocolate dessert. Classical music for piano and flute will accompany the festivities, which will begin at 7 p.m. The price is $95 per person, including gratuity and sales tax. The address is 1570 Scenic Ave., Costa Mesa; (714) 979-4510.

Caliente will expand its regular menu with a three-course valentine special at $14.95. It will include soup or salad, choice of mesquite grilled swordfish or prime rib, chocolate-covered Grand Marnier strawberries and a split of champagne. It may be ordered any time from 3 to 10 p.m. 1910 Main St., Irvine; (714) 975-1220.

If you like your Valentine’s Day on the wild side, you might want to make tracks for Aurora Ristorante, where a special menu will include an alligator Baton Rouge appetizer and an entree of elk loin with wild berries, apples and red wine. There will be tamer offerings too, such as duck au poivre and fresh Norwegian salmon. Entrees will be priced from $16.50 to $22.95. Hours are 5 to 10 p.m. at 1341 S. Euclid Ave., Fullerton; (714) 738-0272.

Everything’s coming up roses at Chanteclair. Ladies will receive long-stemmed roses, and your entree could be a fresh salmon poached in the shape of a rose and served with buerre blanc sauce. Other special entrees offered in addition to the regular menu will include chateaubriand with lobster. Prices range from $23 to $35. The Chanteclair patissierie will prepare heart-shaped desserts, and pianist Terry Conder will entertain. The restaurant is at 18912 MacArthur Blvd., Irvine. Make your reservations for between 5 and 11 p.m.; (714) 752-8001.

Cuorcini de Cupido , a combination of green and white heart-shaped pasta, will be the focal point for Valentine’s Day at Trattoria Spiga. One pasta will be filled with sea bass, the other with duck, and with ricotta and mascarpone cheeses, then sauteed with sage and served with black butter sauce. Other offerings will include veal scaloppine and ahi tuna rolled with mozzarella. The price will be $55.75 per couple, excluding beverages, tax and gratuity. Service will be from 11 a.m to 10 p.m. in the restaurant at the Crystal Court, 3333 Bear St., Costa Mesa. Reservations: (714) 540-3365.

Dinner in a garden setting, a room for two with champagne, chocolates and a rose, plus breakfast the morning after constitutes the valentine’s package at the Irvine Marriott. The dinner will be served at J.W.’s Sea Grill between 5 and 10 p.m. The package is $120, including tax but not gratuities. Reservations: (714) 724-3640. The hotel is at 18000 Von Karman Ave., Irvine.

La Ferme in Mission Viejo plans two valentine dessert surprises--one designed for women, the other for men--as the grand finale to a five-course dinner. The entree choices will be filet mignon, rack of lamb, salmon with cream of saffron sauce or lobster in puff pastry with Madeira sauce. Prices range from $40 to $50, depending on the entree. Cherie and her three-piece band will perform live jazz. Seatings will be at 6, 6:30, 8:30 and 9 p.m. Reservations: (714) 364-6664. The restaurant is at 28541 Marguerite Parkway.

Couples who dine at Bistro 201 from 5:30 to 11 p.m. on Valentine’s Day or on Feb. 15 will receive a free bag of cookies and a photo memento. The three-course menu will feature herb smoked salmon with warm potato chive souffle and mustard cream, grilled filet of beef with white peppercorn sauce and onion fritters, and double Belgian chocolate souffle with fresh raspberries and Chambord sauce. A jazz band will entertain. The cost will be $29 per person, excluding liquor, tax and gratuity. The address is 18201 Von Karman Ave., Irvine. (714) 553-9201.

A Parisian-style evening of dining awaits guests at Le Meridien Hotel, Newport Beach. Three-course candle-lit dinners for two will be offered in both Cafe Fleuri and Restaurant Antoine. Diners may choose one bottle of champagne or wine per couple, and each lady will receive a red rose. Dinner will be served from 6 to 10 p.m. at both. A pianist will entertain in Cafe Fleuri, and strolling musicians will serenade in Restaurant Antoine. Prices are $40 per person in the Cafe, $60 in Antoine. From 8 p.m. to 1 a.m. in the Trianon Lounge, Gerard Barbut will perform the songs of celebrated French romantic singers. The hotel is at 4500 MacArthur Blvd.; (714) 476-2001.

Mon Chateau’s new pastry chef, Derek Chadwick, will create a heart-shaped berry dessert, and chef and owner Timothy Plumb will prepare entrees such as Dover sole, lamb, frog legs, lobster and steak au poivre, to be eaten by candlelight, of course, and with the accompaniment of live piano music. Prices will range from $17 to $26. Hours are 5:30 to 10 p.m. at 23642 El Toro Road, El Toro; (714) 830-3810.

Cano’s will roll out a valentine-red carpet with an offer of complimentary photos of couples, chocolate confections and specials for two such as 20-ounce lobster tails, paella Valenciana and rack of lamb from 5 to 11 p.m. Pianist, guitarist and singer Jimmy Hopper will entertain in the lounge from 8:30 p.m. to midnight. The address is 2241 W. Coast Highway, Newport Beach; (714) 631-1381.

Las Brisas in Laguna Beach will romance you with a strolling violinist, flowers for the ladies and special valentine’s entrees for around $19, in addition to the regular menu. Dinner will be served from 4:30 to 11 p.m. at 361 Cliff Drive; (714) 497-5434.