Winter Squash: Incredible Hulks of the Kitchen

Recently I drove a few miles up the Pacific Coast to a small town near Santa Barbara where a pumpkin patch offered the first winter squash of the season. It was a cool, misty day and the ocean was enshrouded in fog.

There, under the gray skies and bordered by the somber greens of cypress and eucalyptus trees, was a field colored a brilliant, blazing orange. There were hundreds of pumpkins, luminous under the darkening sky--from small, perfectly formed ones to huge, ridged, convoluted monsters.

There were also Hubbard squash with coarse, pebbled skin colored a pale, otherworldly blue-gray, looking like strangely formed boulders. Banana squash, large and elongated, had skins of a delicate, pale peach color. And the spaghetti squash with light yellow skins were shaped like small, compact watermelons. I walked along the rows and filled my little red wagon, provided by the family-run farm, with one of each variety of squash.

Of course, there are many more varieties of winter squash available, including butternut squash, Japanese or kabocha squash, acorn and golden acorn squash, and delicata . What differentiates them, aside from their outward appearance, is the degree of sweet or nutty flavor they possess, and the texture of their flesh, which ranges from creamy to very fibrous.

Pumpkin, the most commonly known winter squash, has a fibrous texture, is somewhat watery and mildly sweet.

Banana squash is less fibrous and a little sweeter than pumpkin.

Hubbard squash is by many considered to be one of the best of the winter squashes available, and I agree. Its texture is quite creamy and the flesh has a pronounced sweetness.

Butternut is another of my favorites. It is fine-textured with a sweet, slightly nutty flavor.

Spaghetti squash has become popular lately. Its claim to fame is that the flesh, when baked, separates into strings resembling thin, spaghetti-like strands. Its flavor is mild, with a hint of nuttiness.

Because of the thick, hard shells they develop, winter squash can be kept in storage for many months. But it is during the cool months, when they are newly harvested, that they are at their peak in terms of flavor and succulence.

The flesh of winter squash, which ranges from yellow to bright gold to an intense red-orange, brings a jolt of color to the subdued palette of cool-weather produce. And its mild, sweet taste is perfect comfort food during the season when temperatures drop and days grow shorter.

Pumpkin and other winter squash are easy to cook and are extremely versatile. Winter squash can be baked, steamed, sauteed and grilled. It can be used in soups, in rice and risotto dishes, in vegetable flans and in gratins.

In Sicily, slender slices of reddish-gold squash are fried until lightly golden, then marinated in fresh mint, red wine vinegar and sugar. Italians also make gnocchi from winter squash as well as using it, seasoned with Parmesan cheese, as a stuffing for fresh pasta shapes. And in Provence, pumpkin is combined with Roquefort cheese and used as a filling for savory pies.

My first taste of winter squash this season was a newly harvested piece of Hubbard squash. I baked it, mashed the flesh into a coarse puree, added a little water and a few drops of fresh cream, then seasoned it very simply with sea salt, a grinding of black pepper and a touch of nutmeg. It was delicious and as I sat there eating, I knew that winter was on its way.

Half moons of winter squash are fried until golden, then marinated in vinegar, sugar and mint--an exotic-sounding combination that brilliantly enhances the sweet flavor of the squash.

SWEET-AND-SOUR RED SQUASH WITH MINT

1 pound butternut squash or other winter squash, seeds and strings removed

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

4 cloves garlic, lightly crushed

1/4 cup coarsely chopped mint leaves

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

1/4 cup sugar

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Cut squash lengthwise into sections about 3 inches wide. Use vegetable peeler to remove peel. Cut each piece into half-moon slices little more than 1/4-inch thick.

Heat olive oil in medium pan. Add garlic and saute over low heat until golden brown. Remove garlic and reserve. Raise heat to medium. Fry squash in batches, 1 layer at time, until golden and slightly blistered on both sides. Squash should be tender but still hold its shape. Transfer to platter and sprinkle with chopped mint and reserved garlic.

Add vinegar to remaining oil in pan along with sugar. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir well. Turn heat to high and boil until liquid thickens slightly. Pour over squash. Cool. Marinate several hours or overnight before serving. Makes 4 servings.

Winter squash adds a bright note of color to earthy lentil soup and with the fennel--both the bulb and seeds--sweetness is added.

LENTIL SOUP WITH WINTER SQUASH AND FENNEL

1 small fennel bulb

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 onion, finely diced

1 cup lentils

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

4 cups water

Salt

1/2 pound winter squash, such as butternut or pumpkin, peeled and cut into medium dice

Freshly ground pepper

Cut off stalks of fennel bulb. Finely chop tender feathery leaves and set aside. Discard stalks. Trim away any bruised or blemished areas of bulb and cut bulb into medium dice.

Heat olive oil in soup pot. Add onion and saute over medium heat about 10 minutes. Add diced fennel bulb. Stir and saute 5 minutes. Add lentils, fennel seeds and water. Season to taste with salt. Bring to boil. Reduce heat to simmer and cook, partly covered, 30 minutes.

Add squash and cook another 20 minutes or until squash and lentils are tender. During last few minutes of cooking, stir in reserved chopped fennel leaves. Before serving, season to taste with pepper. Stir and serve. Makes 4 servings.