True Grit, Fire Engines and Big Blue Eyes

DEAR SOS: My family loves and remembers John Wayne. We have discovered that his favorite meal was a hamburger with sliced tomatoes, White House dressing and fries. We have tried to get a recipe for the White House dressing (we even called the White House to no avail). Could you please help?

--RANDY

DEAR RANDY: We sent out a posse and lassoed the missing recipe. And what a patriotic Fourth of July recipe it is. The name refers to the creamy dressing from the “White House Cookbook� by Hugo Ziemann and Mrs. F. L. Gillette (The Saalfield Publishing Co.), a comprehensive encyclopedia of information and recipes for the home, first published in 1887. Authors Ziemann (a White House steward at the time) and Gillette (a popular 19th-Century household hinter) documented presidential repasts, state dinners, buffets, family meals and favorites of the period, as well as etiquette tips and health care information. The book has been reprinted throughout the years and is still available. Here’s the easier version of the White House Dressing from the book.

WHITE HOUSE DRESSING

2 tablespoons whipped cream

2 tablespoons sugar

1/4 cup vinegar

Salt

Combine whipped cream, sugar and vinegar. Season to taste with salt. Beat well and use over coleslaw, tomatoes or greens as desired. Makes about 1/2 cup.

DEAR SOS: Engine Co. No. 28 serves a dessert to die for--chocolate bread pudding in a vanilla custard sauce. Please persuade the chef to divulge the recipe for this delectable concoction.

--DIANE

DEAR DIANE: The Engine Co. No. 28 people credit food writer Steven Raichlen for the adapted version. The steaming process produces a more dense, rich chocolate flavor in contrast to a more traditional baked bread pudding.

ENGINE CO. NO. 28 CHOCOLATE BREAD PUDDING

6 cups French bread, crust removed and diced 1/4 inch

2 1/2 cups milk

9 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped coarsely

3/4 cup unsalted butter, softened

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar

7 eggs

3/4 teaspoon vanilla

Dash cinnamon

Creme Anglaise

Berries, mint sprigs and powdered sugar, optional

Place cubed bread in bowl. Add 2 cups milk to absorb. Heat remaining 1/2 cup milk over low heat and add chocolate. Stir occasionally until chocolate melts.

Cream butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Beat in eggs, 1 at time. Stir in vanilla, cinnamon and chocolate mixture. Fold in bread mixture and let stand 20 minutes.

Grease 2 1/2-quart pudding mold. Or use 2 (8x4-inch) loaf or 8-inch round or square cake pan and line with parchment paper. Pour mixture into mold and cover with foil. Tie top with kitchen string to keep out any moisture from steam if pan does not have cover or lip large enough for crimping foil.

Steam about 1 hour 15 minutes, or until cake tester inserted near center comes out clean. Remove lid or foil and cool slightly on rack. Invert mold onto plate and remove parchment, if used. Cool to room temperature, then wrap and refrigerate if serving more than few hours later.

To serve, cut pudding into 12 wedges if round pan is used or into slices for loaf. Spoon Creme Anglaise onto dessert dish and place wedge or slab over sauce. Or lace sauce over pudding. Garnish with berries, sprigs of mint or a dusting of powdered sugar. Makes about 12 servings.

Creme Anglaise

1 vanilla bean, split and scraped

2 cups whipping cream

1 cup milk

8 egg yolks

1/2 cup sugar

Combine vanilla bean, whipping cream and milk in saucepan with heavy bottom and scald. Let stand 30 minutes to allow flavors to develop. Strain.

Beat egg yolks and sugar in bowl until pale yellow. Gradually beat in warm milk mixture and return to saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until sauce coats back of spoon. Pour sauce into container and place square of parchment or wax paper directly on top to prevent skin from forming.

Cool to room temperature before refrigerating. Can be made up to 3 days ahead.