Enjoy Some Choi Sum (or Raab, or Rapini)

A non-heading variety of broccoli, frequently called for in Italian and Chinese recipes, is known by a number of names: broccoli raab, turnip broccoli, rapini, Chinese flowering broccoli, choi sum and others. Only in the last couple of years has it appeared outside markets that specialize in ethnic foods.

Regardless of what it’s called, however, the best quality is dark green with firm, slender stems ( 1/4 to 1/2 inch in diameter) up to a foot in length. The sparsely budded stalks should have few open yellow flowers (Step 1).

The vegetable’s flavor is more bitter than standard broccoli, but it is cooked in a similar fashion. Rinse with cold water. Trim away any large wilted leaves (Step 2), then peel away the tough outer layer of the stalk (Step 3) or cut away the heavy base stems.

Leave the stalks whole or cut into pieces (Step 4). Broccoli raab may be boiled, steamed, stir-fried, braised or sauteed. Whatever method is used, cook just until tender-crisp.

Serve hot with butter or hollandaise sauce, or chilled with vinaigrette dressing. Or blanch quickly, then saute with oil and garlic. Dim sum carts at Chinese restaurants often serve the vegetable liberally drizzled with oyster sauce.