The Wine of Philosophy

PORT HAS BEEN CALLED “the wine of philosophy� by countless wine lovers; it demands and produces a mood that glides with ease into voyages of discovery. It calls a halt to fearful contemplation of tomorrow or the sorrows and regrets of yesterday.

Essentially, there are two main types of port: wood-aged--which includes Ruby, Tawny, and White--and bottled-aged. The latter points to vintage port, which is aged two or three years in oak vats and then bottled until it is mature, a minimum of 10 to 15 years. There are some “late-bottled� vintage ports, those that spend more time in the vats, that may be served without the muss and fuss of decanting. But they are inadequate stand-ins for the real thing. The 1966 is fabulous for drinking right now. And for investors, the last declared vintage, 1985, will be a winner.

Some ports to watch for include those from the Quinta do Noval estate in the Upper Douro of Portugal.

Porto Noval LB($14.99). This estate-grown port is a 4-year-old blend. It was once “late bottled� but no longer. Lusciously rich and gloriously ruby in hue.

Quinta do Noval Old Coronation Ruby ($13). The brick-red edge of the wine in the glass verifies its “old� status. Superb dessert wine with cheese.

Quinta do Noval Tawny ($13). This tawny wine is a blend of older ports that comes alive on the palate. Multi- dimensional complexity.

Quinta do Noval Old Tawny ($38). Such a wine does not age in the bottle. This translucent bronzy wine is less sweet than the Tawny and more smooth.

Quinta do Noval 1970 Vintage ($90). This is a wine that will change, round and soften with age. It’s soft on the palate, though; a vivid coppery hue edges its ruby depths.

Quinta do Noval 1966 Vintage ($140). While vintage ports are only 2% of the port wine trade, they make up 55% of this estate’s production. The poetic and profound complexity of this wine must be experienced. Tears of the wine, arching in rivulets down the sides of the glass, enhance the beholder’s visual pleasure, leading to the sheer sensuality of the total taste and bringing temporary solace for our Now.