Midnight suppers on this New Year’s Eve emphasize substance for party-hopping holiday revelers. These menus do that while still offering ease of preparation, budget-consciousness and beauty at times when parties must have style. : Midnight Suppers

New Year’s Eve midnight suppers usually feature simple, one-dish fare.

Why? Simple: most people prefer not to cook on New Year’s Eve.

You can’t go wrong with soups and stews. They have been the heroes of the one-dish meal since great-great-grandmother stoked the stove. Oyster stew, one of the most traditional New Year’s suppers, is still a winner, as are bean dishes and casseroles.

The idea is to prepare them ahead, when you can take a moment or two from the busy holiday schedule, so you will be free on the day of festivities.

That means the entire menu should be simple, too. This year, we’ve chosen a group of do-ahead menus that are slightly more substantial than you might expect from a New Year’s Eve supper.

Pick and choose among the menus to suit your style and skill. There are suggestions for handling the logistics. You may even mix them up to accommodate your needs. And don’t worry if they don’t exactly match. Entertaining gaffes are quickly forgiven and forgotten on New Year’s Eve.

Chili is a grand dish to put before New Year’s Eve guests. And it’s grand for the cook too, who can prepare it well in advance and freeze it if need be. The smoked chicken brings old-time chili up to date.

With the chili we added rice, noodles or spaghetti and a mixed green salad, which are the only last-minute duties of the hostess. Prepared properly, they too can be put together early in the day.

The dessert suggestion is an orange-raspberry coupe, which can be put together a few days in advance. Peel small, whole oranges and combine with berries. Douse with Cointreau or other liqueur and sprinkle with sugar. Mix and let stand at least 24 hours, turning occasionally.

Turkey curry supper, in keeping with the holiday season, calls for other do-ahead dishes such as steamed rice (cook in steamer early in the day), fruit salad (made several hours ahead) and English trifle that is best prepared a day ahead to properly meld flavors.

Paella too can be prepared up to the point of adding the seafood, which should be done at the last moment. This could be done while reheating the paella. A bean salad is do-ahead, and so is flan. If you don’t have a favorite recipe, use a standard cookbook custard.

Chicken pie made with filo dough can be completely prepared a day or two in advance and reheated in the oven to crisp the dough before serving. The pudding and bean salad are do-aheads.

Pastitsio, an ancient Greek dish, is Americanized with the substitution of salmon for meat. Baklava, homemade with our recipe or store-bought, is the perfect finale.

A Japanese curry supper is relatively new to Los Angeles. The Japanese curry base is packaged and can be prepared ahead or even at the last moment with little effort. Keep the rice in the steamer for replenishing and prepare the Diplomat Pudding or any pudding, coffee jelly or other interesting jellies ahead. Even ice cream is a good, simple dessert for this menu.

For other ideas, we’ve added a few entrees to incorporate into your own menu plans. Cassoulet is a perfect substantial, do-ahead supper idea. So is the Provencale tian, a French bean and spinach casserole to which you may add meat, fish or poultry.

Another fine New Year’s Eve supper idea is Italian pasta e fagiole to which you can add meat. It too is do-ahead.

Then, of course, you have Oyster Stew or chowder, the all-time classic, which will blend well with any of the menu accompaniments above.

As for beverages, that’s a personal choice. Some hosts stick to one kind of drink, such as Champagne or wine, while others offer a full bar.

Chili Party

Champagne

Smoked Chicken Chili

Rice, Noodles or Spaghetti

Tossed Mixed Lettuce Salad with Vinaigrette Dressing

Orange/Raspberry Coupe

Prepare the chili the day before. Keep spaghetti from sticking by tossing with olive oil. For the coupe, mix orange segments with thawed frozen raspberries splashed with Kirsch or Grand Marnier.

Paella L.A. Party

Pimms Cup

Turkey Curry

Condiments

Steamed Basmati Rice

Papaya - Mango Salad with

Minted Vinaigrette

English Trifle

Have Pimms Cup ready for guests to pick up from tray as they arrive. Prepare Turkey Curry and English Trifle a day ahead. Steam rice ahead but microwave to reheat. Arrange salad early in the day and chill until ready to serve. (Use papaya halves filled with diced mango, mint leaves and vinaigrette on a pretty lettuce leaf.)

Paella L.A. Party

Dry Sherry on the Rocks

L.A. Confetti Paella

Tossed Vegetable-Bean Salad with Creamy French Dressing

Flan

Prepare Paella up to the point of adding shellfish. Use assorted canned beans and vegetables for salad and prepare early in the day. Prepare flan a day ahead.

California Chicken Pie Supper

Champagne

California Chicken Pie

Garbanzo-Kidney Bean Salad

Amaretto Pudding

Prepare the pie a day ahead and reheat at 350 degrees 20 minutes. Prepare basic vanilla pudding, but fold in whipped cream and add amaretto liqueur flavoring. Sprinkle top of pudding with crushed amaretto cookies.

Pastitsio Party

Ouzo or Retsina or other Greek wine

Olives, Feta cheese

Salmon Pastitsio

Greek Salad (greens, cucumber, tomato and feta)

Baklava, Shortbread

(Kourabiedes) cookies

Prepare pastitsio a day ahead. Buy the baklava. Ouzo and retsina are available at most Greek grocery stores.

Japanese Curry Supper

Warm Sake/Japanese Beer

Japanese Curry House Curry

Steamed Rice

Japanese Green Salad with Rice Wine Vinaigrette

Diplomat Pudding or Coffee Jelly with Whipped Cream

Prepare the curry and meats ahead. Steam rice in Japanese steamer. Green salad includes Iceberg lettuce leaves, grated carrot, tomato wedges with rice wine vinegar and oil dressing. Use a basic cookbook for Diplomat Pudding or make standard jelly, using strong coffee as the liquid.

SMOKED CHICKEN CHILI

1 cup chopped green peppers

Chopped onions

2 cloves garlic, minced

3 tablespoons oil

1 (28-ounce) can kidney beans, drained

1 (28-ounce) can stewed tomatoes

1 cup red wine

3 cups cubed smoked or cooked chicken or turkey

1 tablespoon chili powder

Chopped cilantro

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper

1/2 teaspoon salt

2/3 cup shredded Longhorn cheese

2/3 cup sour cream

Saute green pepper, 1 1/4 cups onions and garlic in hot oil in saucepan until tender. Add beans, tomatoes, wine, chicken, chili powder, 1 tablespoons cilantro, red pepper and salt. Simmer 25 minutes.

Pour chili in tureen. Place Longhorn cheese, 2/3 cup chopped onion, 2/3 cup chopped cilantro and sour cream in small dishes. Surround chili with condiments. Makes 6 servings.

Note: Smoked chicken is available at some specialty food markets and supermarkets. Plain cooked chicken or turkey may be substituted, if desired.

TURKEY CURRY

1 cup chopped onions

1/2 cup chopped green pepper

Butter or margarine

1/2 cup flour

3 (14 1/2-ounce) cans chicken broth

Salt

2 tablespoons curry powder

4 cups cubed cooked turkey, chicken, lamb or 1 pound cooked, cleaned shrimp

Hot cooked Basmati rice

2/3 cup golden raisins

2/3 cup shredded fresh coconut

2/3 cup chutney

2/3 cup blanched toasted almonds

Cook onions and green pepper in 1/4 cup butter in skillet until tender. Stir in flour.

Gradually blend in chicken broth, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and curry powder. Cook until thickened, stirring occasionally.

Add turkey and cook until heated through. Serve over rice. Arrange curry and rice in tureens. Surround with raisins, coconut, chutney and almonds. Makes 8 servings.

L.A. CONFETTI PAELLA

Olive oil

1/4 cup chopped shallots

2 cloves garlic, minced

6 chicken drumsticks

6 chicken thighs

4 Italian sausages, cut into 1-inch pieces

2 pounds prawns, cleaned and shelled

3 to 4 cups dry white wine

Dash saffron

1/4 cup soy sauce

1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger root

2 cups short-grain rice

1 tomato, diced

1 pound peas or 1 (10-ounce) package frozen peas

1/2 sweet red pepper, diced

1/2 yellow pepper, diced

1/2 green pepper, diced

Heat 1/4 cup oil. Add shallots and garlic and saute until garlic is just tender.

Add drumsticks, thighs and sausages. Saute until chicken and sausages are browned. Remove chicken and sausages. Set aside. Drain fat, leaving about 2 tablespoons in pan.

Add prawns. Saute until prawns turn red. Remove and set aside.

Add 2 tablespoons wine and saffron and simmer over medium-high heat until almost absorbed. Add shallot mixture, chicken, and sausages. Saute until pepper is slightly tender. Add soy sauce and ginger root.

Add rice, cover and simmer over medium heat, gradually adding remaining wine, until liquid is absorbed and rice is tender, about 30 to 45 minutes.

Remove cover and replace prawns. Add tomato, peas, red, yellow and green peppers. Cover and cook 10 to 15 minutes longer or until peppers are just tender. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

CALIFORNIA CHICKEN FILO PIE

1/2 cup melted butter

8 sheets filo dough

2 cups cooked rice

3 medium carrots, cooked and sliced

1 (10-ounce) package frozen peas

1/2 cup chopped dill weed

4 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves, poached, broiled or grilled and cubed

1/4 cup butter

1/4 cup flour

2 cups chicken broth

Salt, pepper

Generously brush bottom and sides of 12-inch cake pan or 13x9-inch baking pan with melted butter. Line dish with 1 filo sheet allowing pastry to hang over sides.

Brush with melted butter and top with 3 more sheets, brushing each with melted butter. (Keep remaining filo sheets moist under damp cloth.)

Arrange rice, carrots, peas, dill and chicken in layers in pastry-lined dish.

Melt 1/4 cup butter and stir in flour until smooth. Gradually stir in chicken broth. Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer until thickened and smooth.

Cool slightly and pour over chicken-rice mixture. Cover top with remaining filo sheets, brushing sheets with melted butter. Fold in overhanging edges to make rolled edge or trim to fit dish.

Generously brush top sheet with melted butter and bake at 350 degrees 40 to 45 minutes. Cut into wedges or squares. Makes 6 servings.

SALMON PASTITSIO

1 pound macaroni, spaghetti or ziti

3 to 4 chicken bouillon cubes

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 tablespoons butter

2 large onions, chopped

1 pound salmon filets, cut into pieces

3/4 cup dry white wine

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1 teaspoon crushed dried thyme

Dash ground cinnamon

1 bay leaf

1 cup bread crumbs

Cream Sauce

Grated Parmesan or Kasari cheese

Cook macaroni in boiling salted water with bouillon cubes and olive oil until barely tender. Rinse in cold water and drain thoroughly. Set aside.

Melt butter in skillet. Add onions and saute until onions are tender. Lightly mix in salmon. Cook, gently mixing with onions.

Add wine, salt, pepper, thyme, cinnamon and bay leaf. Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer 5 minutes. Set aside.

Sprinkle bread crumbs on bottom of 9x13-inch buttered casserole or baking pan. Layer macaroni and salmon mixture in casserole. Carefully pour in Cream Sauce. Sprinkle with cheese.

Bake at 350 degrees 50 to 60 minutes. Let stand 30 minutes before serving. Slice into squares. Makes about 12 servings.

Cream Sauce

1 quart milk

1/2 cup butter

1/2 cup flour

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

Dash ground nutmeg

4 egg yolks

1/4 cup brandy or Madeira

Scald milk in saucepan. Melt butter in another saucepan. Blend in flour and cook 2 to 3 minutes.

Add hot milk. Cook over low heat 3 to 4 minutes or until thickened, stirring frequently. Do not boil. Add salt, pepper and nutmeg.

Beat egg yolks lightly with brandy. Add little hot cream sauce to yolk mixture, then add egg mixture to cream sauce all at once. Cook 2 to 3 minutes, stirring frequently. Do not boil.

JAPANESE CURRY HOUSE CURRY

2 (3.8-ounce) packages curry sauce mix or for 8 servings

Cooked steamed rice

1 to 2 pounds sirloin, broiled and cubed

3 to 4 chicken breasts, broiled and cubed

1 to 2 pounds cooked cleaned shrimp

Vegetable Saute

Pickled cabbage

Pickled ginger

Chutney

Red pepper flakes

Japanese hot chile oil

Prepare curry sauce according to package direction, omitting meat. Place in tureen. Place rice in separate tureen.

Place sirloin, chicken, shrimp and Vegetable Saute in separate bowls. Meats, shrimp or vegetables are served over steamed rice, curry sauce is spooned over. Garnish with pickled cabbage, pickled ginger and chutney and season with pepper flakes and hot chile oil. Makes 8 servings.

Vegetable Saute

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 small onion, chopped

1 small clove garlic, minced

2 cups shredded napa cabbage

1 cup shredded spinach

1 cup bean sprouts

1/4 cup soy sauce

1/4 cup Mirin or rice wine

Heat oil. Add onion and garlic. Saute until onion is tender.

Add cabbage, spinach and bean sprouts. Sprinkle with soy sauce and wine. Bring to boil. Cover and let steam-cook 3 to 4 minutes until vegetables are steamed to desired consistency.

Note: Recipe may be doubled if using only vegetables with curry.

CALIFORNIA CASSOULET

2 pounds dried large white beans

1 tablespoon salt

1 teaspoon black pepper

1 ham hock

1 whole onion

6 whole cloves

2 carrots, sliced

1/4 teaspoon dried thyme

1/2 pound salt pork

6 chicken legs or thighs

1/3 cup oil

1 cup chopped onion

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 pound garlic sausage

1 cup dry bread crumbs

3 tablespoons butter or margarine, melted

Soak beans overnight in water to cover generously. Add salt, pepper, ham hock, onion studded with cloves, carrots and thyme. Cover and simmer 1 1/2 hours adding more water if needed.

Soak salt pork in boiling water 10 minutes. Dice and add to beans. Brush chicken with oil and broil 20 to 25 minutes 8 inches from source of heat. Turn, brush again with oil and broil 15 to 20 minutes longer. Set chicken aside.

Drain chicken drippings into skillet. Add chopped onion and garlic and cook until tender.

Remove ham hock from beans and cut meat into 1-inch cubes. Cut sausage into 1-inch pieces. Stir onion mixture into beans.

Layer bean mixture, meat and chicken in 6-quart casserole. Cover and bake at 350 degrees 3 hours, adding water, if needed. Mix bread crumbs with butter and sprinkle on cassoulet. Bake, uncovered, 30 minutes. Makes 10 servings.

Note: Duckling may be used instead of chicken. Cut duckling into several large sections and brown in skillet, using drippings to cook vegetables. Then proceed as for chicken.

TIAN

1/2 cup dried white beans

1/4 cup olive oil

2 small cloves garlic, minced

2 medium onions, coarsely chopped

3 or 4 zucchini, sliced

3 or 4 yellow crookneck squash, sliced

2 (10-ounce) packages frozen chopped spinach, thawed

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano

1 1/2 teaspoons dried basil

2 eggs

Grated Parmesan cheese

Tomato wedges

Cook beans in water to cover until tender, about 1 hour. Drain. Turn into baking dish and set aside.

Heat 1 tablespoon oil and add garlic and onions. Saute until onions are tender, then add to beans in casserole. Add 2 tablespoons oil to skillet and heat. Add squashes and saute until tender-crisp. Add to casserole.

Heat remaining oil. Squeeze spinach dry and cook in hot oil about 1 minute. Add to casserole.

Add salt, pepper, oregano and basil and toss lightly, but thoroughly. Beat eggs and combine with 1/2 cup Parmesan cheese. Spread evenly over casserole and bake at 350 degrees 30 to 40 minutes until vegetables are tender.

Garnish with tomato wedges sprinkled with additional Parmesan cheese, if desired. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Note: To add meat to dish, use larger casserole and add 4 cups cooked cubed ham, lamb, beef, chicken or turkey to bean mixture before topping casserole with egg-cheese mixture and baking.

PASTA E FAGIOLE

1 pound small white beans

2 tablespoons flour

5 tablespoons olive oil

1 clove garlic, minced

2 stalks celery, chopped

1 large onion, chopped

1 (28-ounce) can tomatoes

1/2 cup chopped parsley

2 (14 1/2-ounce) cans beef broth

2 teaspoons salt, about

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil

8 ounces macaroni shells, elbow macaroni or other small pasta

2/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese

2/3 cup chopped parsley

Extra virgin olive oil

Lemon wedges

Rinse and drain beans, discarding any bruised or broken beans. Place beans in large pot.

Add flour and 3 tablespoons oil and shake until beans are well coated. Add 2 quarts warm water. Cover and simmer 1 1/4 hours.

Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Add garlic, celery and onion and saute until onion and celery are tender. Add tomatoes, mashing and mixing.

Add parsley and 1/2 cup beef broth. Bring to boil. Reduce heat. Cover and simmer 30 to 40 minutes, adding broth or water to prevent drying. When beans have cooked, remove 3 cups and set aside.

Add remaining beans to onion mixture and place in blender container. Blend until smooth. Turn into large pot.

Add remaining beef broth, reserved 3 cups beans, salt, pepper and basil. Simmer 15 minutes or until bean mixture is heated through and is of desired consistency.

Meanwhile, cook macaroni in boiling salted water until tender and drain. Stir macaroni into soup.

Place soup in large tureen. Garnish with desired amounts of Parmesan cheese, parsley, olive oil and squeeze of lemon. Makes 8 servings.

OYSTER STEW

1/2 cup butter or margarine

1/2 cup chopped onion

2 cups sliced mushrooms

1/4 cup flour

1 quart whipping cream or half and half

1 quart milk

2 pints shucked oysters with liquor

Salt, pepper

Chopped parsley

Melt butter in saucepan. Add onion and mushrooms and saute until tender.

Stir in flour to blend. Slowly add cream and milk, stirring over medium heat until smooth. Stir in oysters with liquor and season to taste with salt and pepper. Heat but do not boil. Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley. Makes 10 servings.

Note: To convert into Oyster Chowder, add 2 cups diced peeled potatoes after adding cream and milk. Cook 10 minutes until potatoes are tender, then add oysters.

Food Styling by MINNIE BERNARDINO and DONNA DEANE