Clamming Up : Native New Englander Tests the Chowder in Red, White and San Clemente Style

Sunday last was a glorious, sun-drenched day on the San Clemente Pier, and one that I will not soon forget. That was the day, you see, I was asked to judge the second annual Fiesta Chowder cook-off in conjunction with the San Clemente Ocean Festival.

Now, I am a native New Englander, and we native New Englanders are plenty particular when it comes to our chowders. To most of us, the ideal chowder has plenty of cream, fresh clams, diced potato, sweet butter, salt, pepper, a little cornstarch and maybe even some bacon if we are feeling radical. Few Bostonians would even point their noses at the red chowders, and suffering the indignities of pasty white pretenders at fish frys, church suppers and ersatz seafood restaurants away from New England takes all the self-discipline and good manners we can muster.

With all due respect to the good people of San Clemente, I must report that despite the fun, Sunday was indeed a stern test of character. Because, as one of the other judges so aptly noted midway through the tasting, “some of these chowders are enough to gag a maggot.�

So, after shuffling through the throngs on the pier, meeting King Neptune, ogling a mermaid and observing hundreds of helium balloons, little boys with fishing poles and apparently happy chowder tasters with their plastic tasting cups, there we were at the judging stand ready to begin.

The sponsors handed us our white chefs hats and aprons, set out the numbered containers, plastic spoons and the paper sheets we were to use for evaluation, marked with numerical scales for color, texture, and aroma. Next to us were some trophies ready to be handed out. The lids were lifted and we began.

I never knew chowders could come in so many varieties. Some had shrimp and strands of celery. Others had Cajun spices and mussels. Some were creamy and yellow. Others were oily and brown. Many of the red chowders were full of fiery peppers and chunks of tomato. Even more of the white chowders had uncooked potatoes floating on the surface. In the end I had to douse my mouth with Perrier and oyster crackers to restore my palate. When the smoke cleared away, these were the results:

Best restaurant New England-style chowder went to Rose and Crown in San Clemente. Best restaurant Manhattan-style chowder went to Sonny’s Pizza in San Clemente. Best individual (non-restaurant) New England-style chowder went to the Lusk Co. in San Clemente. Best individual Manhattan-style chowder went to Ann Raymond in San Clemente.

There was no award for sportsmanlike conduct, but maybe they will put that one in next year. For judges.