Sunday Servings : <i> Where to go for a Sunday supper: </i>

Duplex, 1930 Hillhurst, Los Angeles. (213) 663-2430. Style: Serious food in a neighborly mood. Setting: Homey, with soft lights, tablecloths and mellow walls. Recommended dishes: Special weekly changing Sunday supper menu includes a choice of three appetizers, three entrees and three desserts. Cost per person: $20.

Gillilands, 2424 Main St., Santa Monica. (213) 392-3901. Style: Laid back eclectic California. Setting: Generic with a few old posters and quilts. Recommended dishes: Blarney cheese and onion tart; rack of lamb with mustard herb coating; lemon curd tart. Cost per person: $20-$30.

Grand House, 809 S. Grand Ave., San Pedro. (213) 548-1240. Style: Super-charged home cooking for San Pedro heavy-hitters. Setting: Converted old house with nifty patio. Recommended dishes: A daily changing menu might include basil fettuccine with deer sausage; chicken breast with chanterelle mushrooms in Madeira sauce; apple walnut cake. Cost per person: $20-$35.

Kate Mantilini, 9101 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills. (213) 278-3699. Style: Incarnation of an old-fashioned American grill. Setting: Modern arena. Recommended dishes: Clams casino; lamb shank with braised vegetables. Cost per person: $12-$45.

Orso, 8706 W. Third St., Los Angeles. (213) 274-7144. Style: Trendy trattoria for plebs and celebs. Setting: Cosmopolitan--with one of the nicest patios in L.A. Recommended dishes: Arugula, endive and tomato salad with Parmesan; tagliatelle with grilled vegetables; veal scaloppine. Cost per person: $20-$40.

Yanks, 262 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills. (213) 85-YANKS. Style: Hearty American fills the thirtysomething gap. Setting: ‘40s New England with lots of prints, pine and paint. Recommended dishes: Chicken pot pie; macaroni and cheese; spice layer cake. Cost per person: $10-$20.