Fama in Santa Monica: It’s Like Visiting an Italian-American Family

All the kids at P.S. 41 hoped our Italian friends would take us home for dinner. Their mothers, we knew, spent all day in the kitchen stirring pots of spaghetti sauce and stuffing sausages. The food was a lot better than what our mothers made; if we were really lucky there might even be pizza.

There may not be any Italian-American mothers eager to feed you, but there is Fama, 1416 Fourth St., Santa Monica, (213) 451-8633. The restaurant belongs to Hans and Mary Rockenwagner, who own the sophisticated Rockenwagner in Venice. For their newest venture they persuaded Mary’s mother, Sally Fama, to teach them to cook her spaghetti, home-made sausages and even pizza.

There is such a warm family feeling here that it’s a little like going to someone’s mother’s house. The prices aren’t high (a careful couple could eat well for under $40)--and you won’t have to say thank you when you leave.