For California Chef Alice Waters, Provencal Is Her Province

Just recently, as I entered the elevator of a chic New York hotel, I stopped and sniffed. Rosemary? In central Manhattan? Yes, indeed. The occasion was a Provencal festival inspired by California chef Alice Waters for the American Institute of Food and Wine, headquartered in San Francisco. Waters is owner/chef of Chez Panisse in Berkeley.

In the lobby stood Waters herself toasting branches of fresh rosemary on a grill as she chatted to the food enthusiasts who streamed past.

A feast awaited us: half a dozen varieties of olives, thinly sliced fresh fennel marinated in olive oil and herbs, a spicy garlic dip for vegetables and crisp-crusted homemade bread. Not hard to reproduce at home, but her secret is in the high quality and absolute freshness of the ingredients.

Tradition With a Difference

To echo this Provencal theme, structure a supper menu around the famous salad Nicoise--but with a difference. In this recipe the traditional canned tuna is replaced by grilled kebabs of fresh tuna, served warm on a bed of cooked green beans and Jerusalem artichokes. In the old days, a vinaigrette of baby potatoes was customary, but root artichokes are a new-style alternative. A lemon, thyme and anchovy dressing for the vegetables doubles as marinade for the tuna, adding a pleasant piquancy. Final flavorings of red cherry tomatoes and little tart black olives give the inimitable Nicoise touch.

SUPPER IN PROVENCE FOR 6 Mixed hors d’oeuvres Fresh Tuna Salad Nicoise Rosemary-Lemon Sorbet Almond Cookies Suggested wine: Chilled French or domestic red wine FRESH TUNA SALAD NICOISE

3 pounds boneless tuna steaks, 1 inch thick

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1/4 cup lemon juice

1 tablespoon balsamic or red wine vinegar

2 teaspoons fresh or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

Pepper

8 anchovy fillets, mashed

1 cup olive oil

3 pounds Jerusalem artichokes, unpeeled

Salt

1 1/2 pounds cooked green beans

1 head red leaf lettuce

1 basket red cherry tomatoes

1/2 cup black Nicoise olives, drained

Cut tuna in 1-inch cubes, discarding skin. Thread on 6 skewers and place in shallow tray. Blend mustard, garlic, lemon juice, vinegar, thyme, pepper to taste and anchovies in food processor or bowl using whisk.

Gradually add olive oil so marinade emulsifies and thickens slightly. Taste to adjust for seasonings. Spoon 1/4 cup dressing over tuna, cover and marinate in refrigerator at least 1 hour and up to 6 hours.

Peel Jerusalem artichokes and place in large pan of salted water. Bring to boil and cook 8 to 10 minutes or until tender. Drain, let cool slightly. Slice and then add 1/4 cup dressing and mix gently.

Trim ends from green beans and cook in boiling salted water 10 to 12 minutes or just until crisp. Wash and dry lettuce and tomatoes. Tuna and vegetables may be refrigerated up to 6 hours.

Arrange lettuce leaves around 6 individual plates. Taste artichokes to adjust for seasoning and arrange on lettuce leaves. Toss green beans in another 1/4 cup dressing. Taste and pile beside artichokes. Add tomatoes.

Broil tuna kebabs until fish just flakes easily with fork, 2 minutes on each side. Set skewer of kebabs on each plate, or slide fish off skewers onto salad. Spoon over remaining dressing, sprinkle with olives and serve at once while fish is warm. Makes 6 servings.

Note: Any firm fish such as swordfish or grouper may be substituted for tuna.

ROSEMARY-LEMON SORBET

5 cups water

1 1/4 cups sugar, about

Grated zest and juice of 2 lemons, about

1/2 ounce fresh rosemary sprigs

Heat water and sugar in medium saucepan until dissolved. Boil steadily 2 to 3 minutes. Divide syrup in half. Add lemon zest to 1 portion and simmer over very low heat about 10 minutes. Add lemon juice and let syrup cool.

Add rosemary to remaining syrup, pressing down to immerse. Bring to boil and infuse over low heat 10 to 15 minutes. Strain syrup into lemon syrup. Taste, adding more sugar or lemon to taste.

Chill mixture, then freeze in ice cream maker until firm. Transfer to chilled bowl and store up to 2 days in freezer. Transfer sorbet to refrigerator to soften slightly 30 minutes before serving. Makes 6 servings.

Note: Sorbet is so light, it is best eaten within 2 days before texture starts to deteriorate. More or less sugar and lemon may be added to taste.