'87's Best - Los Angeles Times
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‘87’s Best

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Among the large number of recipes that staff members taste in the Times Test Kitchen each year, there are always some that stand out in our memories. Despite very diverse taste preferences, when the individual votes were tallied, these 12 dishes were judged the overall favorites for 1987.

DONNA’S BEEF POT PIES

2 tablespoons oil

1/2 cup chopped onion

1 clove garlic, minced

1/2 cup chopped celery

1/2 cup chopped peeled carrot

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can clear beef broth

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can clear chicken broth

1/2 cup flour

4 cups diced cooked beef, drippings reserved

2 tablespoons prepared horseradish

1 cup frozen peas, thawed and drained

1 cup frozen corn, thawed and drained

Salt, pepper

Pastry

1/2 cup shredded Swiss cheese

Heat oil in skillet. Saute onion, garlic, celery and carrot in oil until tender. Combine beef and chicken broths. Add water to measure 4 cups. Add to vegetables. Cover and simmer until vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes.

Combine flour and 2/3 cup water, stirring until smooth. Stir into simmering broth. Heat and stir until boiling and thickened. Stir in meat, horseradish, peas and corn. Add any beef drippings left from roasting meat to broth. Simmer about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, to blend flavors. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon mixture into 2 1/2-quart oven-proof casserole or individual 4- to 5-inch oven-proof casseroles. Set aside while making Pastry.

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Roll Pastry to 1/4-inch thickness. Cut round or rounds of dough 1/2 inch larger than tops of casseroles. Press Pastry against edges of each casserole to seal. Cut vent holes on top. Sprinkle cheese over Pastry. Place casseroles on baking sheet. Bake at 400 degrees about 30 minutes or until pastry is golden. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Pastry

1 1/2 cups flour

3/4 teaspoon salt

10 tablespoons shortening

1/2 cup shredded Swiss cheese

4 to 5 tablespoons ice water

Combine flour and salt. Cut in shortening until size of peas. Stir in cheese. Add enough water so dough clings together. Gather into ball.

WALDORF DEVILED BEEF RIBS WITH MUSTARD SAUCE

8 pounds beef ribs (from prime rib of beef), about 2 racks

Salt, pepper

1/4 cup virgin olive oil, about

1 cup Dijon mustard

2 1/2 cups plain bread crumbs

10 ounces veal or beef stock

1/2 cup Madeira

1/2 teaspoon cornstarch

1/2 teaspoon water

2 tablespoons butter

Lightly season bones with salt and pepper. Place bones on baking sheet and roast at 325 degrees 1 1/2 hours. After bones have cooked, allow to cool until easy to handle, about 15 minutes.

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Combine 3 tablespoons olive oil and all but 3 tablespoons mustard, blending well. Separate bones into rib sections and lightly coat with mustard mixture. Dredge each piece in bread crumbs and place on baking sheet. Sprinkle bones lightly with more olive oil. Bake at 375 degrees until golden brown.

Combine stock and Madeira. Reduce by half. Combine cornstarch with water until smooth. Stir into sauce and cook until sauce coats back of spoon. Continue to simmer several minutes to blend flavors over low heat. Add butter and 3 tablespoons reserved mustard. Stir until smooth. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

FLUFFY ORANGE ROLLS

1 package dry yeast

1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar

1/2 cup warm water

2 eggs

1/2 cup evaporated milk

1/4 cup butter, melted

1/4 teaspoon salt

3 1/2 to 4 1/2 cups flour

Grated peel of 1 orange

1/4 cup butter, softened

1 cup powdered sugar

3 tablespoons orange juice

Combine yeast with 1 tablespoon granulated sugar and warm water. Set aside 15 minutes until foamy. Beat together eggs, milk, melted butter, 1/4 cup granulated sugar and salt.

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Stir in yeast mixture. Stir in flour until stickiness is gone and soft dough forms. Knead lightly 5 minutes. Place in greased bowl, turn to grease top, cover bowl with cloth and place in warm spot to rise until doubled, about 1 hour.

Reserve 1/4 teaspoon grated peel for glaze. To make filling, combine rest of peel with softened butter and remaining 1/4 cup granulated sugar in small bowl. Blend well. Set aside.

Combine powdered sugar, orange juice and reserved 1/4 teaspoon grated peel. Blend well and set aside.

When dough has doubled, punch down and let rest 10 minutes. Light 33 charcoal briquettes. Roll dough out on floured board to 13x9-inch rectangle. Spread with filling, covering completely except for 1/2 inch along one long side. Beginning at opposite long side, roll dough jellyroll fashion, sealing well along unfilled edge. With very sharp floured knife, cut roll into 12 to 15 pieces. Place rolls cut sides up and touching in 12-inch Dutch oven. (Place ends in center to avoid burning.)

Let rise in warm spot until coals are moderately hot, about 20 to 30 minutes. When coals are hot, place oven on 8 evenly distributed coals and arrange 25 coals over lid of oven. Turn oven 1/4 turn after 5 minutes and turn lid in opposite direction 1/4 turn. After 8 minutes, remove bottom coals. Continue to turn lid 1/4 turn every 5 minutes. After about 10 to 12 minutes, check rolls to see they are browning evenly. If not, adjust position of top coals. Total cooking time should be 15 to 20 minutes. Rolls will pull away from sides of pan and be golden brown when done.

Spread with glaze while still warm. Makes 12 to 15 rolls.

Note: To bake rolls in conventional oven, arrange rolls in 13x9-inch glass baking dish, allow to rise 20 to 30 minutes, then bake at 375 degrees 20 to 25 minutes.

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TORTA RUSTICA

2 loaves frozen bread dough, thawed

20 slices provolone

8 (7-inch diameter) slices mortadella with pistachios

1 (1-pound) jar roasted sweet red peppers, drained, seeded and halved lengthwise

25 slices mozzarella

10 slices cappicola

6 (4-inch diameter) slices mortadella

Omelet Layer

1 (1-pound) jar Macedonian golden peppers, drained, seeded and halved lengthwise

1 (10-ounce) package frozen collard greens, thawed and well drained

1/4 pound thinly sliced prosciutto

1 (6-inch long) link Italian dry sausage, cut in thin diagonal slices

13 slices spicy, hard salami

Roll one loaf of thawed bread into circle large enough to fit in bottom and up sides of 10-inch springform pan. (If dough is too elastic to retain shape when rolled, let rest a few minutes, then try again.) Press rolled dough onto bottom and up sides of oiled pan.

Arrange 7 slices provolone over dough in bottom of pan, overlapping slightly. Top provolone with 4 slices 7-inch mortadella with pistachios. Flatten sweet red peppers on paper towels to remove any additional moisture and arrange half of peppers over mortadella. Add layer of 7 slices mozzarella, all cappicola and all slices 4-inch mortadella. Press layers down firmly each time new one is added.

Slide Omelet Layer over mortadella. Flatten golden peppers on paper towels and arrange over Omelet Layer. Add 6 slices mozzarella. Spread drained collard greens over mozzarella. Press each layer down firmly while continuing to add layers of 6 slices provolone, prosciutto, 6 slices mozzarella, dry sausage slices, remaining half of sweet red peppers, remaining 7 slices provolone, all spicy hard salami, remaining 4 slices 7-inch mortadella and remaining 6 slices mozzarella.

Roll remaining loaf of dough into large enough circle to fit top of torta. Pinch edges of dough together at sides, sealing well. Brush with egg white mixed with water. Bake at 350 degrees 1 hour or until bread case is golden brown and pulls away from sides of pan slightly.

Completely cool in pan on rack. Refrigerate and serve cold. Cut in wedges to serve. Makes 16 to 20 servings.

Omelet Layer

1 tablespoon butter or margarine

3 eggs, beaten

1 clove garlic, minced

1/4 teaspoon dried tarragon leaves

Salt, pepper

Melt butter in 10-inch nonstick skillet. Combine eggs, garlic and tarragon. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Pour egg mixture into skillet and cook over medium heat, lifting edges to allow uncooked portion of egg to flow underneath to cook. Cook until set. Slide onto plate and cool. Makes 1 (10-inch) omelet.

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BAKED ONION SOUP

4 cups sliced onions

3 cloves garlic, minced

1/4 cup butter or margarine

2 (14 1/2-ounce) cans clear beef broth

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can clear chicken broth

1/4 cup dry Sherry

Salt, pepper

12 small slices French bread

Grated Parmesan cheese

1/2 pound Jack cheese, shredded

Saute onions and garlic in butter in large Dutch oven over low heat until browned and tender. Stir occasionally to prevent scorching. Add beef and chicken broths. Heat to boiling, reduce heat and simmer about 5 minutes to blend flavors. Add Sherry and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Toast bread slices and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese. Ladle hot soup into 4 individual ovenproof casseroles. Place 3 slices toasted bread on top of soup in each. Sprinkle with Jack cheese. Bake at 375 degrees about 30 minutes or until soup is bubbly and cheese is browned. Makes 4 servings.

BARBECUED CHICKEN AND RIBS

1 to 2 pounds beef short ribs

1 to 2 pounds country-style pork ribs

2 whole chickens, skinned and cut up

Salt, pepper

2 tablespoons oil

2 onions, chopped

2 cups water

1 cup vinegar

4 cups catsup

1 cup brown sugar, packed

Trim any excess fat from beef and pork ribs. Season ribs and chicken to taste with salt and pepper. Heat oil in 12-inch Dutch oven placed on 9 to 10 evenly distributed hot coals. Add onions and saute until transparent but not browned. Stir in water, vinegar, catsup and brown sugar. Cook, stirring often, until mixture thickens, about 1 hour.

Add ribs to sauce, stirring to coat well. Continue cooking, stirring often and replacing coals as needed, about 1 hour.

Add chicken pieces, stir to coat well and continue cooking until ribs and chicken are very tender, about 1 hour longer. Oven may be covered or not. Sauce will be thicker if oven is not covered. Makes about 10 servings.

Note: For conventional range cooking, use 8-quart pot and cook on range top according to previous directions.

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SOFT CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES

1 cup butter

1 cup granulated sugar

1 cup brown sugar, packed

2 eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla

2 cups flour

2 1/2 cups oats

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 (12-ounce) package semisweet chocolate pieces

1 (4-ounce) bar milk chocolate, grated

1 1/2 cups chopped nuts

Cream together butter and sugars. Add eggs and vanilla, beating well.

Mix together flour, oats, salt, baking powder and baking soda. Place small amounts in blender and process until mixture turns into powder.

Mix butter-egg mixture with flour mixture until just blended. Add chocolate pieces, milk chocolate and chopped nuts. Roll into balls about size of golf balls and place 2 inches apart on ungreased baking sheet. Bake at 375 degrees 12 minutes. Makes 3 to 4 dozen cookies.

PRATAAD LOM (Prawn Rolls)

Dried bean curd sheets

1 pound shrimp with heads

1 teaspoon coriander root

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1 teaspoon white pepper

1 tablespoon fish sauce or soy sauce

2 egg yolks, beaten

Oil for deep frying

Plum Sauce or bottled Sriracha chile sauce

Sprinkle or brush bean curd sheets with water and allow to soften. Shell and clean shrimp, retaining tails. Make slits in inner curve so shrimp will lie flat. Combine coriander root, garlic and pepper in mortar and pound to make paste. Stir in fish sauce. Combine mixture with shrimp and marinate 5 minutes.

Cut bean curd sheet into 3-inch squares. Place 1 shrimp on each square near top, allowing tail to extend over edge. Fold top of square over shrimp. Roll up tightly. Brush lower edge of bean curd sheet with egg yolk to seal. Place rolls on rack until ready to fry. Fry in deep hot oil until golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Serve at once with bowls of Plum Sauce or Sriracha sauce for dipping. Makes about 2 dozen.

Note: Sriracha, which is Thai hot sauce, and bean curd sheets are available in Asian markets.

Plum Sauce

1 cup water

1 cup sugar

1 1/2 tablespoons rice vinegar

1/4 teaspoon salt

6 Chinese dried preserved plums

Combine water, sugar, rice vinegar, salt and whole plums in small saucepan. Bring to boil and boil until liquid is reduced to 3/4 cup. Remove plums and cool sauce to room temperature.

ALICE’S RED PEPPER SAUCE

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon minced shallots

2 large sweet red peppers, seeded and diced

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

1/2 cup dry white wine

1 cup chicken stock

1 cup whipping cream

Salt

Heat oil in large saucepan. Add garlic and shallots and saute until shallots are translucent. Add peppers, tomato paste and thyme. Cook 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Add wine. Bring to boil. Boil 1 minute, then add chicken stock. Bring to boil. Continue to boil until sauce is reduced by 1/2. Add whipping cream.

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Bring to gentle simmer until reduced again by 1/2. Remove from heat and puree in blender. Strain through fine strainer. Season to taste with salt. Serve as desired with grilled fish, shellfish, chicken or meat. Makes 2 1/2 cups sauce.

NEIMAN-MARCUS CRAB BISQUE

3/4 pound snow crab legs

1 carrot, diced

1 onion, diced

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 stalk celery, diced

1 medium leek, diced

2 ripe tomatoes, diced

2 tablespoons oil

Brandy or dry Sherry

Salt, pepper

2 cups fish stock or canned clam juice

Roux

1 teaspoon tomato paste

1 cup half and half

Dash cayenne pepper

Chopped parsley

Split crab legs down middle and remove meat. Reserve large pieces of crab shell. Set meat aside for garnish.

Saute carrot, onion, garlic, celery, leek and tomatoes in oil until vegetables are tender. Stir in 3 tablespoons brandy and salt and pepper to taste. Cook over high heat until deglazed. Add stock and crab shells and bring to rolling boil. Reduce to simmering and continue to cook 1 hour. Strain and discard crab shells and vegetables. Thicken soup with Roux and simmer over low heat 20 minutes. Add tomato paste, half and half, cayenne, salt and pepper to taste and additional brandy, if desired. Simmer 5 minutes and strain. Garnish with crab meat and parsley. Makes 4 servings.

Roux

6 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon flour

Melt butter in small saucepan. Stir in flour until pale golden in color.

BROADWAY COCONUT CREAM PIE

3/4 cup cornstarch

1 1/2 cups sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 quart milk, scalded

2 eggs

1/2 tablespoon vanilla

2 tablespoons margarine

1/2 teaspoon coconut extract

1 cup coarsely shredded fresh coconut

1 baked 10-inch pie shell

4 cup whipped topping or whipped cream

Combine cornstarch, sugar and salt and mix well. Gradually stir scalded milk into cornstarch mixture. Bring to boil, stirring constantly, and boil 2 minutes until thickened and shiny. Add small amount of hot mixture to eggs and beat until blended. Return to pan and whip 2 minutes over medium heat until slightly thickened, being careful not to curdle mixture.

Remove from heat and add vanilla and margarine, mixing until smooth. Pour through sieve. Place plastic wrap directly over cream. Set aside to cool.

Add coconut extract and 1/2 cup coconut to cooled pie cream. Pour into pie shell. Chill. Spread whipped topping over pie, mounding in center. Sprinkle with remaining 1/2 cup coconut. Makes 1 (10-inch) pie.

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LASAGNA ALLA PINA

3 leeks, sliced 1/4 inch thick

1/4 cup butter

Pepper

1/4 cup red wine

2 radicchio, sliced 1/4 inch thick

Bechamel Sauce

4 (13x9-inch) sheets fresh Lasagna Noodle Dough, or 12 packaged lasagna noodles, cooked

1 to 1 1/2 cups grated Parmesan cheese, preferably Reggiano

4 small or 3 medium tomatoes, sliced

Parsley

Saute leeks in 2 tablespoons butter over medium-low heat until tender, about 5 minutes. Season lightly with pepper. Add 2 tablespoons red wine and cook until wine evaporates. Set aside.

Saute radicchio in remaining 2 tablespoons butter until tender, about 3 minutes. Season lightly with pepper. Add remaining 2 tablespoons red wine and cook until wine evaporates. Set aside.

Add 1/2 to 3/4 cup Bechamel Sauce to leeks and mix lightly. Add 1/2 to 3/4 cup Bechamel Sauce to radicchio and mix lightly.

Place 1 sheet Lasagna Noodle Dough rolled wide enough to fit pan (or 4 packaged lasagna noodles) in bottom of well-buttered 13x9-inch baking pan. Spread half leek mixture over noodle layer. Sprinkle with some Parmesan cheese. Top with 1/3 remaining Bechamel Sauce. Add half radicchio mixture, spreading evenly. Dust with more cheese and cover with another Lasagna Noodle Dough layer.

Repeat layering. Cover with dough and spread remaining 1/3 Bechamel Sauce over dough. Sprinkle with remaining cheese. Garnish with tomato slices and parsley. Bake at 350 degrees 45 minute or until lasagna is pale golden in color. Let stand 10 minutes before cutting into squares. Makes 6 servings.

Bechamel Sauce

1/2 cup butter

3/4 cup flour

1 1/2 quarts milk, about

Salt

1/2 to 3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Melt butter in saucepan. Stir in flour until smooth. Gradually add 1 1/2 quarts milk, stirring constantly until well blended. Bring to boil, then reduce heat and continue to simmer, stirring, until creamy and smooth. Stir in salt to taste and 1/2 cup cheese and cook, stirring, until sauce is smooth and slightly thickened. If too thick, add more milk. If too thin, stir in more cheese.

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Lasagna Noodle Dough

2 eggs

1/4 cup water

1/2 pound semolina flour (about 2 cups)

Beat eggs and water lightly. Place flour on board and make well in center. Add egg-water mixture and incorporate into flour until soft, pliable dough is formed. Roll dough out on pasta machine or by hand until too large to handle. Cut in half and roll each half 1/4 inch thick. Cut into 4 (13x9-inch) rectangles.

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