Dan the Automator, Dogfish concoct a beer/music mash-up
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An electronic whiz who is comfortable incorporating jazz, funk, pop and soul into complex hip-hop textures, Dan âThe Automatorâ Nakamuraâs latest project uses more old-world ingredients. Apples, for instance. And cilantro.
Like lots of Nakamuraâs other concoctions, âPositive Contactâ is a mix-and-mash of seemingly random components. Unlike any of them, however, it is a beer.
This week, Delawareâs adventurous Dogfish Head Brewery began shipping a beer-and-vinyl box set dubbed âPositive Contact,â a limited-run collaboration that pairs a 10-inch white vinyl of Nakamuraâs Deltron 3030 music project with six 750-ml bottles of an ale brewed with Fuji apples, cayenne peppers and cilantro. It should be hitting California retailers in the coming days, if it isnât on shelves already.
Embarking on the project, Dogfish founder Sam Calagione assigned Nakamura perhaps the dream homework assignment of beer nerds everywhere: âI sent Dan every single beer that we make in bottles,â Calagione says. âEvery day or two for a month-and-a-half he would send me elaborate tasting notes on each beer. The goal was for me to figure out his palate.â
Dogfish has a reputation as one of the more experimental -- or simply weird -- craft breweries. The beer designer was the focus of a Discovery Channel series âBrew Masters,â which tracked Calagioneâs quests around the world for ancient, unexpected ingredients. Among its 34 beers are ales concocted with pinot noir juice and the âchemical analysis of 3,000-year-old pottery fragments found in Honduras.â The companyâs former assistant brewmaster, Jon Carpenter, is the lead brewer at L.A.âs burgeoning Golden Road Brewing.
Dogfishâs music connections run deep. Chicago resident Jon Langford, leader of long-running punk outfit the Mekons, has designed artwork for the brewery (Langford also paints, and Calagione owns one of his portraits of Johnny Cash). Dogfish has also released a Miles Davis-inspired beer (Bitches Brew) as well as one named after Robert Johnson (Hellhound on My Ale). Last year, Dogfish unleashed Faithfull Ale, a beer that celebrated the 20th anniversary of Pearl Jamâs âTen.â
The Pearl Jam ale has been retired, and Calagione doesnât expect to ever bottle it again. It is, as Calagione says, âa collectorâs item,â and bids for bottles on eBay start at about $40. âPositive Contactâ sets will be limited to a run of 8,000, and Dogfish is suggesting retailers sell the box set for between $60 and $70.
Nakamura says expanding into beer is a natural evolution. âItâs all sensual,â Nakamura says. âMusic is sensual. Food is sensual. Beer, wine and alcohol are sensual. So this all makes sense. Whether you make food, wine, music or beer, youâre dealing with emotions. Thatâs why thereâs a certain kind of camaraderie among the elements.â
Nakamuraâs Deltron 3030 is his collaboration with rapper Del tha Funky Homosapien; both are veterans of Damon Albarnâs Gorillaz project. The four tracks included on the âPositive Contactâ vinyl are dub remixes of tracks recorded for the actâs new album, due this fall. The upcoming album features guest vocals from âScott Pilgrim Vs. the Worldâ star Mary Elizabeth Winstead, as well as a full orchestra and choir.
Calagione and Nakamura were connected via mutual friends when the brewer expressed that he was a fan. After Nakamura sent Calagione his beer notes, the two met for drinks and food at Eatalyâs rooftop New York beer garden Birreria, a collaboration between Dogfish and Italian brewers Baladin and Del Borgo (Calagione confirms that a L.A. Eataly is likely). Based on ingredients Nakamura said he enjoyed, Calagione began shaving apples and spices into various ales to see what might work as a potential recipe.
âDeltron stands out so much in the world of hip-hop,â Calagione says. âItâs cinematic and the rhymes are all over the place, so this is one of the first cider-beer hybrids. A double-digit percentage of the fermentable sugars in this beer come from organic Fuji apples. It has a complex, herbaceous nose, with the cilantro playing a big part in the aroma. Then it finishes crisp and dry like a French cider.â
Nakamura says his tastes lean to lighter wheat and fruit ales. He cites Japanâs Hitachino Nest White Ale as one of his all-time favorites. âThis is a nod to fresh, California ingredients,â Nakamura says. âThe cilantro hits you, and then the apple comes in.â
The ale has a hearty alcohol content at 9%, and shares the texture of a Belgium wheat. Thereâs definitely a spice kick to the beerâs finish, as it goes down tart and dry. The apple flavoring in the dark orange beer becomes more prominent as it warms, and the pepper comes through greater than the cilantro.
Considering that craft brewers have an avid following -- witness the lines down the block to sample rarities such as Russian Riverâs Pliny the Younger, or the standing-room-only tap room at L.A.âs Eagle Rock Brewery every weekend -- Nakamura knows the box set will likely attract more beer aficionados than music fans. There are no plans to release the dub remixes online, so this music is strictly available to those 21 and older.
âYou realize,â says Nakamura, âthat this is going to be the No. 1 selling vinyl record in America the day the beer comes out.â
The vinyl sleeve is laced with recipes, as Calagioneâs ultimate vision is that âPositive Contactâ will unite music fans, foodies and beer nerds alike. Chefs David Chang, Mario Batalio, James Syhabout, Sean Paxton and Joe Beef contributed recipes for items such as a barley-and-honey brownie and fried chicken. Nakamura cites Syhaboutâs Oakland restaurant Commis as having one of his favorite house beers, a rice ale made by Linden Street Brewery.
Though Calagione doesnât expect Dogfish to be in the vinyl business long, he notes that the brewery has learned more from musicians than other breweries, at least when it comes to running a business. He says the companyâs rallying cry is âanalog beers for the digital age.â
âI learned more about growing Dogfish by studying the music industry,â Calagione says. âThereâs so many parallels between music and beer. For example, Top-40 music is the equivalent of light lager beer. It dominates commercially, itâs accessible and itâs not distinct -- itâs intentionally not distinct.â
He continues, âWeâre a punk rock band. Weâre a hip-hop act. Weâre like when Afrika Bambaataa plugged into a street light for an outdoor party. Weâre like the Minutemen getting into a van and designing their own merch and figuring out a distribution network by calling friends.â
And Dogfishâs rock ânâ roll dreams arenât finished. After the interview, Calagione sent an email that read, âI blasted Japandroids on the way in to work today while day dreaming about a beer made with tree resin and pomegranates.â
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-- Todd Martens