British wine writer Jancis Robinson on a Pinot Noir that makes you crave food

By S. Irene Virbila

June 3, 2013 12 AM PT

Jancis Robinson is a force. The prodigious British wine writer hopped on the Internet long before most other wine folks could muster a blog post or a tweet. Her site JancisRobinson.com -- “immoderately updated” -- contains thousands of her tasting notes, articles and comments. Some content is free, some reserved for subscribers.

She seems to be everywhere at once, tasting, commenting, participating. The wine editor of Financial Times, she is also the author, co-author or editor of numerous serious wine books, including “The Oxford Companion to Wine,” “Jancis Robinson’s Guide to Wine Grapes” and most recently, “American Wine.”

Here’s what she’s drinking now: 2010 Bergström Cumberland Reserve Pinot Noir Willamette Valley in Oregon.

“I love Bergström’s wines because they are an exciting expression of what Oregon has to offer. But Josh Bergström trained in Burgundy, so they have a purity and a lack of palate-numbing sweetness too. This is their biggest volume Pinot, a blend from several vineyards.”

Her tasting note reads, “Light, bright ruby. Great, well integrated nose with delightful freshness and fully ripe fruit with just the slightest suggestion of greenness. Round and easy to love.

“Very appetizing finish. Serious stuff. Real texture here. Not a trace of ersatz sweetness. Makes you crave food, which is a Good Thing in my book. Opens out, peacock’s tail style. Hint of bitter cherry. So alive! And so much more alluring than many red burgundies at the same sort of price.”

She points out that the 2011 vintage is $42 on the winery website, but that the 2010 is just $36.99 at Wine Exchange and the Wine Club.

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