Kris Yenbamroong and Lou Amdur: Wine geekiness at Night + Market

Night+Market hosts Lou Amdur, the former proprietor of Lou Wine Bar, for a one-night wine-pairing dinner at Kris Yenbamroong’s Sunset Boulevard Thai restaurant on Sunday.

“About a year ago, it was erroneously reported that Lou Amdur, of Lou Wine Bar fame, was responsible for our wine list,� says Yenbamroong in a release. “I’ve often wished it to be true (believe me). And while he did almost single-handedly turn me onto what have become some of the most cherished wines in my life, he never actually picked wines for my restaurant. Until now!�

The wine pairings are a result of conversations between Yenbamroong and Amdur. “One of the conversations we keep going back to is the notion of ‘lost’ traditions and how a lot of the things we love are in a fragile state of existence due to lack of interest,� Yenbamroong says. So the theme of the evening is “all things lost�: Thai dishes that Yenbamroong has discovered and wine growers who are interested in preserving “some of the old ways,� to quote Yenbamroong quoting Amdur.

The cost is $65 per person, including wine pairings. Two seatings are available -- at 6 and 8 p.m. Reservations are required; email [email protected] and indicate seating time preference.

And here’s the menu, with wine pairings.

Nam prik plate, including a sampler of two chile dips served with pork rinds and raw cabbage: jaew bong, a salty and extremely spicy relish made with stinky fermented fish, and nam prik ong, Chiang Rai-style pork ragout. Served with 2011 Cerdon de Bugey (sparkling) Renardat-Fache, France.

Rice course: kao kan chin, jasmine rice fortified with pig blood and jowl, steamed in a banana leaf pouch, served with raw onion, cucumber, dried chile, cilantro, lime, garlic and oil, and nam kao tod crispy rice salad with spicy sour pork, onion, cilantro, fish sauce, lime, ginger and bird eye chile. Served with 2011 Klassik (Rotgipfler/Zierflander) Spätrot Gebeshuber, Thermenregion, Austria.

Larb course: larb ped udon, Isan-style duck larb, skin, innards, seasonings, and larb lanna, Chiang Rai-style pork larb with roasted chile and dried herbs (smuggled back from chiang rai in a suitcase). Also koi wua, Isan beef ceviche of raw prime angus tenderloin with seasonings and tons of chile. Served with 2011 L’Enfant Terrible Zinfandel, Dashe Cellars, Mendocino.

Kanom jin noodle course (curry and noodles): Kanom jin nam ya pla raa, curry of wild ginger and pulverized mudfish of both the fresh and fermented varieties. Served with 2007 “Terre del Timorasso� Colli Tortonesi Timorasso, Daniele Ricci, Piemonte.

Night + Market, 9041 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 275-9724, www.nightmarketla.com.

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