Jonathan Gold reviews Dialogue, the secretive restaurant from Dave Beran
Pressed duck
“Until recently,†writes Jonathan Gold in his review of Dialogue, “there were few non-Asian restaurants that aspired to the highest level of international cooking, the rarefied realm of the World’s Top 50 list, multiple Michelin stars, and reservation lists backed up for three months; of $800 dinner tabs; of 20-course tasting menus that read like symbolist poetry; of sommeliers cross-cutting between elegant Burgundies and stank pét-nats with the fluency of an old-school hip-hop DJ. But Dialogue chef Dave Beran is nothing if not hyperambitious. He burns stuff. He makes powders. He will serve you a glass of pink, strawberry-flavored bubbles, not a sturdy foam but the kind you used to make in chocolate milk with a straw, and hide caviar and a bit of pork belly underneath.†Read full review here.
