New York Fashion Week spring 2014: Jeremy Scott review
NEW YORK -- Jeremy Scott unveiled a collaboration with artist Kenny Scharf for his spring and summer 2014 men’s and women’s collection that hit the runway at Milk Studios here on Wednesday.
The inspiration: Titled “Teenagers from Mars,†this collection combines the rebellious spirit of ‘50s-era youth with a future-past Space Age aesthetic to create a range of pieces perfect for the planet-hopping retro-rebel set.
The look: Scott’s usual riot of pattern and color on form-fitting, one-shoulder dresses, bathing suits, skirts and bustier tops for women, several riffs on a bowling shirt silhouette for men (which worked particularly well with the overall vibe of the collection). Recurring prints included an all-over print “angry face†caricature, red squiggly tentacle-like tubes against a multicolored background and a black, inky squiggle and colored spots against white that reminded me (in a good way) of the countertop in a Googie-style diner.
The disenfranchised of 1950/2050 let their voice be heard via a series of slogan pieces including T-shirts printed with “Mars or Bust†and “Teenagers from Mars†and an orange mesh top proclaiming “Earth Sucks.â€
Thanks to the towering beehive hairdos on the women -- and pompadours on some of the men -- and a soundtrack that included songs such as “Mr. Sandman,†“Lollipop†and “My Boyfriend’s Back†-- the show overall called to mind Tim Burton’s “Mars Attacks.â€
According to the show notes, the collaboration with Scharf included three repeat prints done in collaboration with Scott as well as a “hand screen-printed collage group using Kenny’s iconic characters.†(That we had to take a second glance to suss out exactly which of prints were the fruits of the collaboration and which weren’t speaks to how simpatico both men are style-wise.)
Scharf says in the notes that he was excited to collaborate with the designer. “[E]ver since I first saw his collection of Jetsonesque designs, I immediately felt that we would be a great match,†he says, “Jeremy is the first person that I ever let take my art and do whatever he wants.†(Scharf’s past collaborations include a limited-edition Elie Tahari collection, Movado watches, Levi’s trucker jackets and Kiehl’s).
The scene: High-profile attendees included a sister/brother act -- sisters Nicky and Paris Hilton and brothers Kevin and Joe Jonas, as well as photographer Terry Richardson, DJ/model Leigh Lezark and rappers ASAP Rocky and Nicki Minaj.
The verdict: Though we’ve long had a soft spot for Scott’s handiwork, the collaboration with Scharf makes for an out-of-this world spring and summer 2014 collection.
Mars or bust, indeed.
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